With Shoes to Fill and a Culinary Torch to Carry
Master chef Hans Stucki was one of Switzerland’s culinary giants until his premature death in 1998. Those in the food world reverently dropped his name the way aspiring artists do that of Picasso. Good news: the torch has been picked up by one honored enough to have worked under his tutelage in the kitchen for close to a decade.
At the forefront of Switzerland’s (and Europe’s) new guard of stellar chefs, Jean-Claude Wicky effortlessly maintains the standards of Stucki, retaining such specialties as Suprème de Dombes (quail prepared with morel mushrooms and black truffles), and a tender loin of lamb that hints of rosemary sprigs.
The décor, mood, and menu have lightened up, but the culinary style remains assertive and the international clientele – although a tad younger – is savvy enough to know what the wonder and genius of Stucki continues to rule. Wicky carries his rendition of that legacy into the new millennium with ease.