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Must see locations, events and places to travel and enjoy in Uzbekistan.
Must see locations, events and places to travel and enjoy in Uzbekistan.
The three buildings surrounding Samarkand’s Registan Square comprise one of the world’s most spectacular architectural ensembles. In the 15th century, Ulug Beg, grandson of the Turkic conqueror Timur, built a group of mosques, caravanserais (merchants’ inns), and the Ulug Beg, a medresa (Koranic school), around the city’s sandy market square. With the exception of the Ulug Beg, the other buildings were later destroyed and replaced in the 17th century by two more medresas, the Sher Dor and Tilla Kari.
The three medresas were built over a period of 230 years. The first was the Ulug Beg, begun in 1417. Directly opposite, the Sher Dor (“Lion Bearer”), modeled on the Ulug Beg, was added two centuries later. Its unconventional facade depicts live animals and human faces (an interpretation of the Koran forbids this).
The combined mosque and medresa of Tilla Kari (“Gold Decorated”) was added in the mid-17th century. Its ceiling appears domed, but is, in fact, flat — an effect created by the decreasing pattern size toward the center.
The two later buildings were inspired by the earlier Timurid style.
With room for over 100 students and teachers, lodged in 52 cells around the courtyard, the Ulug Beg was effectively a university. Unlike the traditional medresa, which was wholly devoted to Islamic studies, students here also received an education in mathematics and the sciences. This was a reflection of Ulug Beg’s passions Known as the “astronomer king,” he endowed Samarkand with one of the world’s earliest observatories: a two-story structure built on a hill and meant to serve as a giant astronomical instrument pointing at the heavens. Only its circular foundations survive.
Until recently, the portion of Central Asia once called Transoxania (roughly modern Uzbekistan, and parts of Kazakhstan and Turkmenistan), was isolated and largely forgotten. But in the Middle Ages, it was the glittering center of the Islamic world, its cities boasting grand palaces and mosques. Most magnificent of all was Samarkand. Already renowned by the time of Alexander the Great, the city owes its legendary reputation to the leader of the Timurid empire, Timur (1336-1405). Brutal and despotic, Timur was responsible for around 17 million deaths as a result of his military campaigns. However, with the riches he accrued, and the artisans he captured and sent back to Samarkand, he built a city that became a political, religious, cultural, and commercial capital whose influence extended across the known world.
This has two arcaded tiers of cells for students and professors.
Ulug Beg Medresa
The facade consists of a central arched pishtaq (porch) flanked by two minarets. The elaborate tiling of stars is in keeping with Ulug Beg’s passion for astronomy.
Tilla Kari Medresa
Lavish gold-leaf gilding covers the Mecca-facing mihrab (pulpit) beneath the dome chamber.
These have replaced the single-story buildings that once stood in this area.
The Sher Dor Medresa’s marvelous courtyard contains large iwans (arched portals) that are covered with spectacular tile work.
A vast space at the heart of the city, the Registan, meaning a “sandy place,” is the most famous site in Samarkand.
Sher Dor Medresa
The impressive tile work on the pishtaq (porch) depicts two lions stalking gazelles. Behind each lion is a Sun portrayed with a human face.
These feature flared tops from which the muezzin called the people to prayer.
Ulug Beg Medresa Tile Work
The brilliant glazed tiles of vine scrolls and flowers in a polychromy of gold leaf and lapis lazuli is typical of Timurid decoration.
Ulug Beg employed a mathematical consultant in the building of his medresa, Ghiyath ad-Din Jamshid al-Kashi, whose treatise on mathematics and astronomy has survived to the present day.
c. 1417-20: Constrion of the Ulug Beg Medresa.
1619: Completion of the Sher Dor Medresa.
1647: The Tilla Kari Medresa is finished.
1932-52: Restoration of the Ulug Beg Medresa.
2001: The Registan is designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Uzbekistan has the most interesting historical and architectural legacy of all the Central Asian republics freed from Soviet domination in 1991. Its pinnacle is Samarkand, the navel of the vast empire held by Timur, a.k.a. Tamerlane (1336-1405), one of history’s greatest and cruelest conquerors.
A fabled city that fired European imaginations with tales of its legendary beauty, it was built and embellished by architects, artists, and craftsmen abducted by Tamerlane and his descendants from faraway conquered territories. For 2,000 years, the city was one of the most important stops on the Silk Road, its bazaars thronged with merchants and shoppers.
Since its construction between the 14th and 16th centuries, Samarkand’s Registan has been considered by many to be the noblest public square in the world, a breathtaking showcase of a civilization that placed supreme value on tangible beauty. A courtyard the size of a football field, it is surrounded on three sides by the soaring arches, towering minarets, and fluted turquoise domes of three madrassas (Islamic colleges).
Another of the most visually stunning sights in this city of superlatives is Shah-i-Zinda, a complex of mausoleums dating mostly from the 14th and 15th centuries. Exceptional masterworks of terra-cotta, majolica, and intricate tilework, they were created by master Persian and Azerbaijani craftsmen, and together form a showpiece of ceramic art that remains unrivaled in Central Asia.
Some of the earliest mausoleums are those of Tamerlane’s wives, his beautiful young niece, and his sisters, but it’s the grave of Qusam ibn-Abbas, believed to have been a cousin of the Prophet Mohammed, that is Shah-i-Zinda’s most famous. An air of holiness surrounds the tomb, and three pilgrimages to it are deemed the equivalent of one to Mecca. Qusam ibn-Abbas is the “living king” who gave the complex its name, though ironically it’s come to be known as the City of the Dead.
The 20th century hasn’t yet arrived in Bukhara’s Old Town, let alone the 21st, and even though the city’s origins are lost in time, that didn’t stop local authorities from arbitrarily choosing 1997 to celebrate Bukhara’s 2,500th anniversary.
Like Samarkand and Khiva, Bukhara was one of the legendary Silk Road caravan cities, but unlike its neighbors, it has avoided growing into a modern city (like Samarkand) or being so overpreserved that it’s had the life squeezed out of it (like Khiva). Instead, Old Bukhara has a lived-in center. Close to 150 buildings are protected architectural sites, and overzealous restoration has been kept at bay so far.
The 12th-century Kalan Mosque and Minaret and the 1,000-year-old Ismael Samani Mausoleum are some of the architectural highlights, but much of the Old City’s present appearance dates to the 16th century, when Bukhara was capital of the Bukhara khanate. Of the dozens of caravansaries and bazaars, 100 madrassas (Islamic colleges), and 300 mosques that filled the desert city in those days, many remain, in various states of dilapidation and preservation.
Once you’ve seen Bukhara’s famous monuments, take time to wander its backstreets, where goats have unofficial right of way, children romp, and old men fill the teahouses playing the backgammon-like game shishbesh. It’s a precious glimpse of Central Asian life and culture on a more personal scale.