This is by no means the biggest or fanciest camp in Kenya, but its strength lies in the fact that it’s a real home. Created by a Norwegian family in love with Africa, it has six canvas-and-stone rooms with roaring log fires and hot-water bottles popped between the sheets on chilly nights. Wake up to spectacular views across the plains to a watering hole where elephants, gazelle, zebra and wild dogs gather as they travel the game-rich corridor that passes through camp. Days can be as adventure-packed as you like: there are game drives where you won’t see another vehicle, helicopter trips for trout fishing at Mount Kenya, a resident pride of lions that can be tracked.
There are also think tanks, excursions or simply chats round the campfire with specialists including rock-art experts, conservationists and Kenyan policy makers. And if that sounds a little taxing, there are long lunches with binoculars at the ready, an orphaned cheetah to play with or the option of an open-air massage. Unusually for a safari camp, guests can do anything whenever they want, because Enasoit feels like it’s your own and, quite frankly, that’s worth far more than anything big and fancy.