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BEST FOR… Drama, caves, trolls

WHY GO? It’s worth risking their wrath, though, to crunch along the pitch-pebbled shore, watching guillemots and fulmars wheel among the basalt columns, and to see waves crash against the offshore rocks – allegedly trolls creeping inland.

WHAT TO DO: This isn’t hidden – the Vik end of the beach, home to the best caves, is tourbus-tastic. But hit the south coast a little further west and you (or, better, your guide) can 4WD onto a seemingly endless expanse of empty ebony sand.

Ash-black Reynisfjara Beach sits in the shadow of some of Iceland’s most volatile volcanoes.

WHILE YOU’RE THERE: Take an ice-hike on Solheimajokull glacier. Walk behind the water at Seljalandsfoss.

GET THERE: Reynisfjara is 190km from Reykjavik. A daily bus connects Reykjavik and Vik.

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