Top Tables – New Delhi, Delhi Territory, India

For the Palates of Princes and Peasants

India has one of the world’s great cuisines, and the country’s luxury hotel restaurants have become social hubs and gastronomic destinations for local businessmen and families as well as visiting foreigners.

New Delhi’s Maurya Sheraton has no rivals, offering the day-and-night selection of two of India’s best-known restaurants. Dum Pukht’s elegant and airy decor reflects the cuisine’s royal origins as the refined court food of the 18th-century nawabs of Avadh. This little-known, delicate cuisine uses steam to slowly cook sealed vessels of finely cut meats and vegetables until they’re ready to melt in your mouth.

The Bukhara restaurant is radically different, offering robust and informal food and a hunting-camp atmos­phere of stone walls, wooden-trestle tables, and a glassed-in kitchen that’s always good for a show. The food is no less exquisite, but the emphasis is on perfectly prepared tandoori – originally made for peasants but fit for a king.

  • a couple of years ago
  • India

Palace on Wheels – New Delhi, Delhi Territory, India

The Private Toy Train of the Maharajas

Modeled after the luxurious private railway cars of the former rulers of Gujarat and Rajasthan, the Palace on Wheels is the subcontinent’s answer to the Orient Express, replete with service-proud captains and staff outfitted in crisp tunics and brilliant turbans straight out of The Jewel in the Crown.

Each of the fourteen wagons (or “saloons”) is named after a former princely state and dec­orated in its most representative colors and fabrics. Rich veneered wood paneling and custom-designed furniture with inlaid motifs lend a further touch of class.

The train travels mostly through the desert corners of Rajasthan, usually at night to allow full days of sightseeing in such magical cities as Jaipur, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, and Jodhpur. Guests are treated like royalty onboard and on land as well, with musi­cians and richly harnessed elephants meeting and greeting the train’s arrival.

Luncheons are arranged at former maharajas’ palaces, and camel treks and tiger photo-safaris fill out the exciting week on wheels, culminating in a grand finale visit to – where else? – the Taj Mahal, before heading back to New Delhi.

  • a couple of years ago
  • India

Chomolhari Trek and the Tiger’s Nest – Paro Valley, Bhutan

Untrammeled Terrain at a Sacred Mountain

The last independent Buddhist mountain kingdom in the Himalayas, Bhutan (Druk Yul, the Land of the Thunder Dragon) is one of the most remote and tantalizing corners of Asia. Seventy percent of its 18,000 square miles is forested, and the nation treats nature with admirable respect – its king is young and environmentally sensitive, and many of the country’s higher regions remain nearly free of the footprints of man, untouched examples of the fast-disappearing Himalayan environment.

The nine-day trek to Chomolhari, Bhutan’s sacred and highest mountain, at the border with Tibet, offers outsiders a rare opportunity to experience its unspoiled mountain wilder­ness and varied terrain, not to mention its almost complete lack of other trekkers (Bhutan heavily restricts tourism). Climbing beside ter­raced farms and verdant rice paddies, through meadows and low forests, travelers venture beyond the tree line into a world of glaciers and rock, where the legendary snow leopard prowls. Campsites are set up in high alpine pastures where yak herders bring their shaggy animals to graze by pristine mountain lakes.

Clinging to a sheer mountain ledge about 3,000 feet above the terraced Paro Valley, Taktsang, the Tiger’s Nest, is a destination of treks long and short, and of reverent Buddhist pilgrims. The greatest of all Bhutanese monu­ments, it was founded in A.D. 747 by a Tibetan missionary venerated as the second Buddha and called Guru Rinpoche (Precious Teacher). Legend says he landed on this spot from neigh­boring Tibet astride a flying tiger, bringing the tenets of Buddhism with him. It’s startlingly scenic, with nothing breaking the silence except a waterfall, the call of a raven, the flut­tering of the prayer flags, and the chanting of a few monks.

The stone monastery suffered from a major fire in 1998, but it is slowly being restored.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Bhutan

Paro Festival – Paro, Bhutan

A Whirling Spectacle of Tradition and People-Watching

Now that Bhutan has ended its historic isolation from the outside world, its colorful traditional festivals, called tshechus, are the perfect window from which to view its heritage. These festivals traditionally take place in the courtyards of the great dzongs – the for­tified monasteries that remain the centers of religion, education, and local government in each district of the kingdom.

They are not staged for the benefit of visitors, who can con­sider themselves privileged witnesses to these events, which have remained unchanged for centuries.

The springtime celebration in Paro is the country’s best-known annual dance festival. Throngs of joyful Bhutanese townspeople in traditional woven robes gather from all over the valley, while dancers (monks or trained laymen) in magnificent masks and costumes take on the aspects of peaceful or wrathful deities, demons, and animals, reenacting the legends of Himalayan Buddhism in the Dragon Kingdom.

The dances, known as cham, are performed to bring blessings upon all onlookers, be they from across the valley or across the globe, to protect them against mis­fortune.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Bhutan

Horseback Riding in Mongolia – Mongolia

Following the Trail of Genghis Khan in an Untamed Land

Ever since Genghis Khan encouraged his people to live by the sword, not the plow, Mongolians have been nomadic herders, holding to their horse-based culture and leaving vast tracks of ruggedly beautiful countryside virtually untouched over the centuries.

To expe­rience the land and spirit of this fiercely inde­pendent but traditionally hospitable nation, which has been autonomous since the 1920s, get on a horse yourself and take a ride through a land that betrays virtually no sign of the mod­ern world. Organized treks head for one of Mongolia’s best-kept secrets, Lake Hovsgal.

A hundred miles long and 12 miles wide, it is one of the deepest and sweetest freshwater lakes in the world. West of Hovsgal lies the Darhat Valley, a huge basin surrounded by rugged mountains on three sides, resembling Jackson Hole, Wyoming. And within miles of the Russian border, visit the summer camp of the Tsaatan, or Reindeer People, an ethnic minority that raises, milks, eats, and rides reindeer.

The horse’s role in Mongolian life is brought into colorful focus during the Naadam Festival, held each July. Herdsmen and women of all ages from all over Mongolia – many on horseback – come to the capital of Ulaanbaatar for two raucous days of social­izing and unbridled competition in the age-old sporting events of horse racing, archery, and wrestling.

The equestrian events are the fes­tival’s highlight, held on the rolling, grassy steppe outside the city. The sight and sound of 600 horses charging in a headlong gallop over a 10-mile course is a heart-stopping sensation, and only the celebration that follows – with its open-hearted Mongolian hospitality, drinking, and food – can match it.

The Gobi Desert – Mongolia

Hauntingly Beautiful and Vast

Gobi simply means “desert,” and of all the world’s arid lands, this remote region – lying between Siberia to the north and the Tibetan Plateau to the south – has the greatest air of mystery. Stretching for 1,000 miles west to east, the Gobi is divided politically into two sections: half in Mongolia proper and half in the area of northern China called Inner Mongolia. Either side can be visited, but the Mongolian side has a little more romance and several million fewer people.

Contrary to the sterile sameness that the word “desert” may suggest, the Gobi holds many fascinations, and not just paleontolog­ical. It is a place of subtle colors that change with the day’s light, of stark skies and vast spaces, an utterly silent landscape punctuated by the occasional ger (yurt), the Mongolians’ round, white, tentlike homes.

These cheer­ful people, who subsist on the animals they herd, are naturally generous, feeding and feting foreign guests who show up at their door unannounced. Their simple life­style continues in quiet, unspoiled isolation, much as it has for thou­sands of years.

Cherry Blossom Viewing – Yoshino, Japan

A Venerated National Pastime

Every year after the bleak winter skies disappear, tens of millions of Japanese flock to the parks and temple gardens in pursuit of hanami, or cherry blossom viewing. When a gentle breeze carries snowflake-size pink-and-white petals fluttering to the ground on a spring day, it is easy to understand how the Japanese passion for these ephemeral blossoms is an almost spiritual thing.

In Tokyo, city­-dwelling office workers make do with nighttime hanami, sake-drinking parties in the large Ueno Park or along the moat encircling the Imperial Palace. But purists and hanami connoisseurs who aim to get as much as possible out of the one- to two-week-long season head for Yoshino Mountain in the Yoshino-Kumano National Park, not far from Nara and Kyoto, Japan’s first capital cities.

The mountain is vir­tually covered with tens of thousands of cen­turies-old white mountain cherry trees divided into groves (called Hitome-Sembon, or One Thousand Trees at a Glance) that, according to their altitude, bloom at different times, usually beginning in early April. Marked pathways, scattered temples, a predominantly Japanese blossom-viewing crowd, and the shops and teahouses in the pleasant town of Yoshino promise an unforgettable experience.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Japan

Tsukiji Fish Market – Tokyo, Japan

A Predawn Institution – Bring Your Galoshes!

Jet lag can be a wonderful thing. If you find yourself wide awake at 5 A.M. and in the mood for some predawn action, the cavernous wholesale Tsukiji Fish Market seethes with activity, as you would expect of a place that supplies 90 percent of the fish consumed in Tokyo.

Wander this staggering market’s side aisles; you won’t believe some of the things consid­ered edible, much less prized delicacies. In a country where fresh seafood reigns supreme, maguro (tuna) is king: fresh and frozen, torpedo-size tunas are hauled in from the fishing boats alongside the market’s riverside piers or flown in from as far away as Africa.

At any of the lightning-fast auctions that begin the day, as many as 190 tons of tuna can be sold, and one fish alone can weigh more than 1,000 pounds. If you’ve worked up an appetite wandering the 50-acre market and are considering sashimi or sushi for breakfast, no one guarantees fresher fish nor a wider variety than the market’s no-frills sushi bars, such as Sushi Dai. They get high marks for local color too.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Japan

The Park Hyatt Tokyo – Japan

An Avant-Garde High-Tech Aerie

You’ve never seen anything like this ultramodern hotel (unless you’ve seen the award-winning Lost in Translation, which was filmed here) occupying the top floors above Tokyo’s busy nightlife district in a futuristic fifty-two-story skyscraper, one of the city’s most dramatic.

The largest guest rooms in Tokyo are equipped with every gadget and infinite amenities, including huge bathrooms, some with superlative views of Mount Fuji. The numerous restaurants offer soaring spaces with unmatched views.

The starkly beautiful Kozue restaurant and the stylish, super-trendy top-floor New York Grill/New York Bar – the latter with two-story windows, an amazing 1,600-bottle wine cellar, an open kitchen, and fabulous original art – have brought an unprecedented level of sophisti­cation to Tokyo. Together, they’re the city’s uncontested power scene. The gym and pool area are housed in a three-story glass-enclosed pyramid, making sunset and the neon-lit evening hours the perfect time to work out.

The gorgeous, understated East-meets-West ambience in every facet of the design captures the trail-blazing essence of Tokyo better than any other city hotel – and that says a lot.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Japan

Climbing Mount Fuji and Restoring the Soul – Shizuoka, Japan

Japan’s Sacred Mountain, and a Rejuvenating Soak

Hailed as a goddess, revered as a sacred mountain and the country’s national symbol, 12,390-foot Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest peak, a per­fectly symmetrical volcanic cone that’s spellbinding when not shrouded in clouds, and is particularly beautiful when reflected on the mirror-calm surface of Lake Ashi-no.

Famous throughout the world, the dormant volcano has always exuded a strong pull on the Japanese, who believe that to experience goraiko (sunrise) on its summit is one of the most moving of all natural experi­ences. They also admit that while everyone should climb Fuji-san once, only a fool would climb it twice. Still, judging by the huge num­ber of gung-ho climbers who show up every summer – an impressive number of grandpar­ents in their seventies and older among them – a good many of them must be return con­tenders.

Six mountain paths, each with ten stations, lead to the summit, but most climb­ers begin a five- to six-hour climb to the top from the fifth station (8,250 feet), at either Gogome on the north side or Shin-Gogome on the south. The descent is a breeze.

The name Fuji means “fire” in the Ainu language, and in the resort area of Hakone, within the Mount Fuji National Park, intense volcanic activity can be observed from the funicular that passes above the Valley of Great Boiling (or Ojigoku, Big Hell) and its steam­ing sulfurous gorge.

Public baths tap into searing-hot, mineral-rich onsen (hot springs, which abound throughout Japan) and promise to cure everything from stress to rheumatism to muscles sore from climbing the mountain. Despite the modernization and Westernization of Japanese cities, onsen are a tradition that refuses to die, and on weekends the wonder­fully scenic area of Hakone fills with Tokyo­ites who come for a long, hot soak.

Of the handful of traditional ryokan inns with their own indoor and outdoor onsen, Gôra Kadan, the former summer residence of the Kan-In-No-Miya imperial family, is one of the nicest in the country. The renowned Hakone Open-Air Museum houses sculptures by Henry Moore.

  • a couple of years ago
  • Japan