Martin County
“Look down the boardwalk to your left and up. That’s what a 1000-year-old Cypress tree looks like,” said Chuck Barrowclough, our guide at the Barley Barber Swamp. For a few moments our normally boisterous group is silent as we took in its majesty. Adorned with Spanish moss and with vines wrapped around the silver-barked trunk, it’s the star attraction of this 400-acre nature reserve that shelters a diverse ecosystem and indigenous flora and fauna. We were thrilled to spot alligators and bald eagles. But the ancient tree enthralled me most, and I couldn’t help but think what stories it would be able to tell if it could. Remarkably, this worthwhile tour is free although donations are encouraged to continue its conservation work.
Though the cypress couldn’t tell its story, we found someone at our next stop that regaled us with tales of a Florida of yesterday. Jonnie Flewelling, innkeeper of the Seminole Inn, has strong family ties to the area. Her grandmother was the first post mistress of Indiantown, and they still retain post office box number one. Jonnie is a gifted storyteller and her accounts of the Seminole natives, early rancher ‘crackers’ and of her inn riveted me. The Seminole Inn has been welcoming guests since 1926 and has been in the Flewelling family for 40 years. Stays can be as relaxing as rocking on the wooden chairs on the porch or as adventurous as hunting for wild hogs.
But what they are best known for is their country brunch. “We draw people in from Jacksonville to Miami and often book out,” says Jonnie. After partaking in their southern fare of biscuits, meatloaf, collard greens and the crispy fried chicken, I could understand why.
“My mother stood over me for 20 years before she let me make it myself,” said Jonnie.
These recipes, and more importantly the stories that permeate every detail of the Seminole Inn, is a legacy to be proud of, and are perfect examples of what riches visitors can find on Florida’s Treasure Coast.
If you go: Most visitors fly to either Orlando or Fort Lauderdale and drive to the Treasure Coast. Driving distance is 60 to 90 minutes depending on the destination. We stayed at the Hampton Inn in both Vero Beach and Stuart and were impressed with their convenience, service and full breakfasts.
