From the mango-, basil- and olive-oil ice lollies on arrival to the golf buggies scooting you from the crescent-moon-shaped pool to the restaurant, this is a seriously smart hotel on a peninsula west of Weligama Bay. Sprawling villas share pools between every two or three, and the beach club, a short amble down the hill, arranges surf lessons and diving trips. Squirrelled away in the cacti on the headland are secret sunset-watching spots named after breeds of passing whales. Doubles/rom about £340.