Mini Guide – Weekend in Dublin

Livelier than ever, the Irish capital promises culture and craic a-plenty – plus wild adventures in the great outdoors, right on its doorstep

Friday

The Winding Stair

This bookshop and restaurant is a local institution, inside a rickety townhouse by the Liffey. Riffle through its new and second-hand titles over a coffee or head upstairs for home cooking of seasonal local produce, the likes of 28-day-aged Irish beef, Dingle Bay crab and chocolate torte.

Gate Theatre

Ireland’s famously literary capital is an excellent place to catch a play. Head to the Gate Theatre, whose elegant 18th-century surrounds have hosted many a historic debut. Irish, European and American classics make up the bill, and you might even catch a movie star sharpening their craft, as Orson Welles and many others did before them.

The Cobblestone

With its wood-panelled walls and well-trodden floorboards, the Cobblestone is an old-school boozer that’s well off the tourist trail in one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. Billing itself as a ‘a drinking pub with a music problem’, the convivial spot hosts nightly music sessions where traditional musicians and new folk talents let rip-settle in with a good pint.

Saturday

St Stephen’s Green

Nine bucolic hectares flanked by Georgian townhouses, St Stephen’s Green is an ideal spot for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. Its tree-lined paths wind beside lakes and flower gardens, while manicured lawns are dotted with Victorian bandstands and statues of the city’s great and good, from Irish patriots to writers Joyce and Yeats.

Chester Beatty Library

Packed with rare treasures from across the globe, this is one of Europe’s best small museums. Highlights include early biblical parchments, papyrus poems, Chinese jade books and the world’s finest collection of illuminated Islamic texts. Make time for its temporary exhibitions, the Mediterranean-and Middle East-inspired Silk Road Cafe and the Zen-like roof terrace.

Sophie’s

Slip into a booth and watch the sunset at Sophie’s, above the Dean Dublin hotel. This industrial-styled restaurant has 360-degree views of the city through its glass walls. The menu riffs on Irish, Italian and New York cuisine, from calamari and spiced chorizo bolognese to lamb shank with champ mash, plus barbecues and pizzas on the roof terrace. Post-dinner, sip craft ale, whiskey or cocktails as DJs spin tracks ’til late.

Sunday

The Hugh Lane

Set in a Georgian pile, this gallery houses an excellent collection of modern and contemporary art, running the gamut from Impressionist masterpieces by Degas, Monet, Manetet alto Irish artists such as Sean Scully. There’s also the studio of Dublin-born Francis Bacon, transported from London and reassembled piece by piece.

Coastal Cycles

With more miles of beach than Barcelona, Dublin’s coast is a glorious place for a cycle. The Irish Centre for Cycling offers bike hire and tours such as Wheels and Waves, pedalling from the seaside town of Malahide, via its sprawling castle grounds, to and from the fishing village of Howth. Cyclists also take a short boat trip to an island known for its rare birds and ancient ruined church.

Aqua

Perched at the end of Howth’s pier, Aqua serves up just-caught seafood and locally sourced beef, lamb and chicken, paired with veggies from its own garden. With floor-to-ceiling windows, there’s a side order of sweeping sea views, and, on Sunday afternoons, a soundtrack of live jazz. Wind down with a drink in the bar before a walk around the harbor.

Dublin Essentials

Transport

Airlines such as Aer Lingus, BA and Ryanair fly to Dublin from most major UK airports; Aer Lingus flies between London and Dublin up to 18 times a day. The airport is seven miles north of the city centre, or about 40 minutes by private or express coach or bus number 16. A taxi is also a good option. It’s easy to explore the city on foot – its centre spans just two miles across. To go further afield, the Dublin suburbs and coast are well-served by the DART rail.

Where to Stay

Cliff Townhouse (above) overlooks St Stephen’s Green. Its nine luxurious rooms are decked out with rich fabrics and antiques. Seasonal Irish cuisine is served at the restaurant, and there’s also a champagne bar.

Set in a faux-Gothic building, Grafton Guesthouse offers simple, spacious rooms, friendly staff and a top breakfast, which is served in a farm-styled French restaurant a few doors down.

Located on the Liffey’s south bank, The Clarence has stylish rooms with oak beds and custom-designed furniture. Attached is a restaurant helmed by a Michelin-starred chef, a grand bar and a drinking den.

The Know-How

Dublin Markets

The weekend sees markets pop up around the city:

Cow’s Lane Designer Mart – New Irish designers sell cutting-edge creations – from clothes and homeware to art and jewellery.

Temple Bar Food Market – Sample Irish farmhouse cheese or artisan gelato at the city’s best open-air food market, packed with seasonal produce.

Temple Bar Book Market – Stalls selling new, second-hand and rare books are a rummager’s dream (Sat and Sun).

The Ha’Penny Market – Vintage and designer clothes, vinyl, retro furniture and bric-a-brac are thick on the ground at this market set in a music venue.