The Aloha Isles

In Hawaii, aloha is more than a greeting – it’s an attitude that permeates every aspect of life. Each island has something different to discover, but the spirit of aloha unites them all

In Hawaii, ‘aloha’ is everywhere. It’s reflected in the name of the boldly patterned shirts for which the 50th state is known, and you’ll see the word in the titles of businesses, restaurants and hotels. It also pops up in greetings, offerings of thanks and declarations of love. But why is it used so much?

Aloha isn’t just a word, or a way to say hello and goodbye. It’s a spirit that inhabits and influences almost everything that happens here, and the locals see it as a manifesto for life. It takes in many different meanings but, broadly put, it encapsulates generosity, friendliness and an over aching mantra of ‘do no harm’. Traditional Hawaiian culture doesn’t separate humanity from the natural world; both are regarded according to the values of unity, honesty and humility that aloha represents. If you want to truly understand it, you have to experience it first-hand. Here are a few suggestions of where to start.

O’ahu

Most visitors to Hawaii arrive through Honolulu International Airport on the state’s most populous island. O‘ahu is home to almost three quarters of Hawaii’s population – hence its nickname, ‘The Gathering Place’. But the state’s third-largest island is more than a transit hub – it’s a destination in its own right with fascinating cities and enticing wilds begging to be explored.

Honolulu was once home to the Hawaiian monarchy (it’s actually the site of the only royal palace ever to stand on American soil, the Tolani Palace), but today you’ll find a thoroughly modern metropolis that holds its multicultural roots close. Visit Oahu Market in Chinatown to try foods from across Asia, or delve into the local nightlife and art scene. If you’re feeling adventurous, Honolulu is the place to arrange a shark dive: observing and respecting these apex predators outside of an aquarium is the embodiment of the aloha attitude.
To the west of the city is Pearl Harbor. 2016 marks the 75th anniversary of the attacks, so the city will be busy with commemorations. Pay your respects at the USS Arizona Memorial, a visually stunning tribute to the fallen crewmen that’s positioned directly over the still-visible wreck of the US battleship. You can only access the site by boat but the 75-minute tour, which includes a short film and lets you view cutaways into the innards of the ship, is well worth the trip.

Down the coast you’ll find Waikiki, Oahu’s legendary and sophisticated seafront city. Once upon a time, only Hawaiian royalty was allowed to surf the gentle waters here, but today we’re all permitted to practice our skills on the waves. Spend a day riding the kahunas before enjoying a sunset cruise out to the volcanic ridge of Diamond Head, where you can sip mai tais to the strains of the slack key guitar.

Kaua’i

A hundred miles to the northwest of O‘ahu sits Kaua’i, the greenest of the Hawaiian Islands. Find a good vantage point here and you’ll be rewarded with sparkling rivers, emerald peaks and dramatic coastlines in a single glance. It’s a lush and fertile land – so much so that it’s affectionately known as ‘The Garden Island’.

On the northwest side you’ll find the Nā Pali Coast, a 22-mile stretch of turquoise coves and tumbling waterfalls that ranks among the most beautiful in Hawaii. Take a catamaran cruise and enjoy the views over a glass of wine or, if you’re feeling fit, take the kayak trip up the coast – tours start from Hanalei or Anini in the north.

If you’re a keen photographer, a helicopter tour is a guaranteed way to capture some unforgettable shots. You could also take a boat trip and find some humpback whales, who come to the warm waters to raise their young. Hawaiian rules prohibit groups getting within 100 metres of these majestic animals, so you don’t have to worry about disturbing them.

For another epic trip, hire a car and take on Highway 550, a winding scenic route that brings you from sea level to the peaks, taking in the rust-red rock formations of Waimea Canyon along the way. In keeping with the aloha spirit, hire a hybrid and help keep the jungles green.

Maui

Maui is formed from two main volcanoes: the older, taller Mauna Kahalawai in the west and younger Haleakala in the east. Over millions of years, their flows overlapped to create the mountainous topography that gives Maui its nickname, ‘The Valley Isle’.

Maui regularly tops polls of the world’s most romantic islands, thanks to a wealth of luxury resorts, clean white beaches and adventurous activities. Climb to the summit of Haleakalā to take in the sunrise, or head to Pe’ahi between October and April for the chance to watch brave surfers as they tackle ‘Jaws’, a world-famous break that reaches heights of 20m.

From Maui, it’s simple to take a day trip to either Moloka‘i or Lāna‘i. Moloka‘i is the most traditionally Hawaiian of the islands you can visit, an unspoilt and easy-going place that is one of the purest examples of the aloha attitude. It’s also home to the oldest religious site in Hawai’i, ‘Ili ;ilil’ opae Heiau. Lanai is more developed, with plenty of high-end hotels to choose from, but there are still opportunities to get out into the wild: a 4×4 tour of the rutted roads to the west is highly recommended.

The Island of Hawai’i – also known as the Big Island to differentiate it from the wider state of Hawaii – is the only island with ongoing volcanic activity, which means it’s also still growing. Seeing molten lava meeting the ocean and solidifying into land is a sight that’ll stay with you forever. Your best bet is to take a boat or helicopter trip to Hawai ‘i Volcanoes National Park. Walking trips are also available, but lava is fickle, and having the ability to get around quickly will give you the greatest chance to see the four elements of earth, wind, fire and water meeting in a single place.

Mauna Kea is the towering volcano at the centre of Big Island. Its strange, otherworldly landscape is home to the highest concentration of observatories in the world, all taking advantage of the thin atmosphere and low light pollution. Arrive in the evening for a glorious, multicoloured sunset followed by stargazing.

For the quintessential Big Island experience, make sure you eat at a luau before you leave. It’s perhaps the most upfront expression of aloha: a night of music, food and traditional Hawaiian arts, all delivered with the omnipresent Hawaiian smile.