Vintage Napa Valley

California’s classic wine country is always on the menu

It’s morning in California’s Napa Valley, and though most people haven’t yet poured their first cup of coffee, you’ve risen with the sun and are ready to explore. Fortunately, knowing your penchant for early starts, we have reserved something special: a coveted spot at Ehlers Estate’s intimate “Start Your Day” tasting experience. At the historic Saint Helena winery, visitors watch morning’s golden light illuminate the surround­ing mountains as winemaker Kevin Morrisey walks through the estate’s vineyards and speaks about his passion for organic winemaking. Later, in the tasting room, you sample some of Ehlers’ finest vintages, paired with flaky pastries from Thomas Keller’s French-inspired Bouchon Bakery in nearby Yountville.

Though Napa Valley will never be short on charm, having someone who understands your preferences and tastes can mean the difference between a good getaway and an extraordinary experience.

With so much in the valley to explore, our wealth of firsthand experience is key. From the town of Napa in the south to Calistoga in the north, the valley claims a chain of distinct communities, each with its own diversions and vibe, and to visit just one would be a shame. It’s not just about the wine (though that wouldn’t be a bad thing). But here, also, seasonal cuisine rules, haute hotels spoil, and activities from mud baths to hot-air balloon rides beckon. How to decide? We can help, but following are a few of our favorite ways to wine and dine your way through the valley.

The Portal – Napa

Threshold to Napa Valley and big brother to the region’s other wine villages, Napa (the valley’s largest town) bustles with cutting-edge art galleries, lively tasting rooms, and upscale dining venues such as Ken Frank’s Michelin-starred La Toque. In fact, Napa has so much to offer, including its promenade along the Napa River, that sometimes travelers don’t even venture outside the city limits (we highly suggest you do, however).

Wine: In Napa, you’ll never be thirsty. Two must-stops along its tasting-room crawl are family-owned Stonehedge, home to handcrafted artisanal wines, and Uncorked at Oxbow, which offers private salons for personalized tastings and blending sessions.

Dine: From locally sourced picnic sandwiches at Oxbow Public Market to five-spice-rubbed duck at Celadon, Napa is long on options.

Stay: Highlights of Carneros Resort and Spa’s recent renovation include a new wedding events venue and up­dated family pool, along with a bar and outdoor terrace at its quintessential locavore restau­rant, Farm. With 86 cottages and 10 suites clustered in tiny “neighborhoods” named for nature’s elements, the swank complex embodies the es­sence of the Napa experience.

The Epicurean – Yountville

Napa Valley’s undisputed culinary capital, with more Michelin stars per capita than any other U.S. locale, Yountville personi­fies the California wine country lifestyle. Designated an official American Viticultural Area (AVA), the hamlet also houses The French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s storied pillar of New American cuisine and seasonal eating, and a bevy of other much-lauded restaurants, tasting rooms, and bakeries. Expect quiet nights followed by an early-morning parade of fitness mavens, from cyclists to runners.

Wine: You may want to linger all day at Cliff Lede Vineyards, where you’ll find blocks of grapes named for legendary rock tunes such as “Moondance” and “Dream On” (and corresponding “Rock Block” blends like Moondance Dream), along with a variety of tasting options. “Walk-ins can partake in bar flights, but those with reservations can opt for exclusive veranda table tastings or imbibe in the VIP tasting room called “Backstage,” which features signed guitars and a changing, rock-themed art exhibit.

Dine: The French Laundry may be Napa Valley’s Mecca, but Keller’s Ad Hoc also delivers – albeit with a more affordable, less complex menu. We also like Michael Chiarello’s Bottega

In homage to Napa’s Italian immigrant heritage, Redd Wood fires up hand-tossed pizzas, and sushi cravers can get an ultrafresh fix at R+D Kitchen.

Stay: As California’s first LEED Plati­num-certified hotel, 62-room Bardessono Hotel & Spa has led Napa’s trend toward sustainable tourism. Likewise, its restaurant, Lucy, celebrates quintessential farm-to-fork fare with an on-site garden. You’ll also love the rooftop pool and the Murphy bed-style massage table that comes in each room.

The Classic – Saint Helena

Known as “Napa Valley’s Main Street,” this natural beauty can best be described as comfort­able in its skin. Home to a half-mile main strip lined with sycamore trees and a host of long-standing wineries – including Beringer, the valley’s oldest – Saint Helena has grown more chic and charismatic with age. Though it teems with history (Robert Louis Stevenson hung out here on his honeymoon), the town presents today as a well-heeled, modern wine village, festooned with the sort of shops you want to peruse: cookery stores, clothing bou­tiques, olive oil dispensaries, and artisan bakeries.

Wine: To taste Saint Helena’s finest, you should secure winery appointments with go-to local driver-guide, who’ll have access to all the best wineries and owners. One suggested route: Begin the day at Ehlers Estate, then continue to Hall Wines, whose uber-stylish architecture complements the artistry they bottle. Later, ascend to Cain Vineyard & Winery, which overlooks the valley from the crest of the Spring Mountain district, for a guided vineyard hike and tasting.

Dine: Arrive early to The Model Bakery – a Napa staple for nearly 90 years – for its famed oversize English muffins. (Note: You may be tempted to bribe locals for their place in line.) For lunch, Fox sends clients to Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch – she promises you’ll swoon over the pimento cheese deviled eggs. She also urges: “Don’t miss the dark chocolate caramels with fleur de sel at Woodhouse Choco­late”. Out­door fireplaces and a walnut bar set the scene at Press, a farmhouse-styled chophouse where dry-aged beef grills over almond and cherrywood and whose wine menu exclu­sively features local bottles.

Stay: Meadowood Napa Valley’s 250 acres feel like a village in itself. The resort holds 85 cottage-style suites, tennis courts, a new spa (request the 3.5-hour vinotherapy treatment), a croquet filed, and a golf course, but it’s most renowned for its three-Michelin-starred restaurant, one of only five in the western US.

The Earth Mother – Calistoga

Located at the valley’s north­ern tip and less traveled than Napa, folksy Calistoga exudes an unpretentious, accessible ease. Home to Chateau Montelena Winery, famous for its win in the 1976 Judgement of Paris, it draws visitors with family-owned businesses, wine-cen­tric cafés, and coffee shops decorated with poetry graf­fiti. Perhaps most defined by its mineral-rich geothermal springs and curative mud baths, available throughout town, Calistoga offers well­ness with a direct connec­tion to the valley’s fertile soil.

Wine: A decades-old stone winery and an original Craftsman-style house-turned-tasting room comprise Frank Family Vineyards.Though its tasting room is open to the public, your advisor can arrange a private tasting with Frank’s legendary winemaker, Den­nis Zablosky. For a more whimsical experience, the Tank Garage Winery oc­cupies a former gas station in which guests can sample stellar local wines amid pinball machines and vin­tage motorcycles.

Dine: Join locals for break­fast (all day!) at cozy Cafe Sarafornia, where corned beef hash, salmon and eggs, and towering pancakes provide fuel for wine jaunts. For din­ner, tuck into classic French, German, and Mexican dishes at Johnny’s, whose chefs make their own charcuterie and forage for local ingredients. At the bar, brioche bun slid­ers steal the show.

Stay: Eco-friendly, 89-room Solage lies a short walking distance from Calistoga’s shops and restaurants. Known for its Michelin-starred restaurant, geothermal bathhouse, and Mudslide spa treatment, the hotel also appeals to active oenophiles who appreciate its complimentary fitness classes and saltwater pool. Solage’s Mercedes-Benz program allows guests to borrow from a collection of cars, including a convertible, for off-property excursions.

Calistoga Ranch offers 50 lodges within a 157-acre site marked by ancient oaks and a private lake. With mountain views, a host of hiking trails, and chef Bryan Moscatello’s seasonal menu at The Lake-house restaurant, the resort firmly roots guests in the set­ting. Highly recommended: the ranch’s on-site beekeep­ing course, guided meditation walks, and Calistoga-inspired Water Therapy treatment in the spa’s healing mineral pool.

More to explore …

A visit to Napa Valley can be a celebratory, once-in-a-lifetime trip – or you could return repeatedly and find something new each time. Here, two other towns in the valley to capture your attention.

Oakville. Koa, a four-legged family member, greets guests at Gamble Family Vineyards, where founder/owner Tom Gamble pours his wine for you (tastings are by referral only, so book ahead). Featured on our cover, Durant & Booth’s recently opened tasting salon serves wine flights paired with cheese and charcuterie plates within a restored Victorian home built in 1877. Just next door, the Oakville Grocery stocks plenty of gourmet picnic supplies. Pack a basket and dine along a hiking trail or in the back of your car while your private driver steers you safely to the next estate.

Rutherford. With its own AVA designation, neighboring Rutherford is best known for its cabernet sauvignons, which taste different than those grown just a stone’s throw away. Full of berry and herb flavors, they have a certain earthy wonder that oenophiles call “Rutherford dust.” You can reserve a tasting at Alpha Omega Winery, a boutique outpost with limited-production cabernets and a terrace overlooking the Mayacamas Mountains. Rutherford Grill is where all the winemakers hang out. There’s no corkage fee, so you’ll find them around the bar, sharing their wine with one another. Order the rib eye, a perfect 3 match for the hamlet’s powerful reds.