The Fal River Festival – Cornwall

We decided to head to Cornwall’s most popular visitor destination, the Fal River in the West Country of the UK for its annual celebration of life on the river. Here, we spent the week touring the river and sampling some of the delights that the area has to offer.

The South Coast of England is blessed with more than its fair share of stunning locations. The rolling South Downs and the South Downs Way, The Jurassic Coast through Dorset and the rolling hills of Somerset are all incredibly beautiful and draw crowds, year in and year out, who travel to marvel at the spectacle of the Great British coastline.

It is my personal opinion, though, that the real Jewel in the crown can’t be witnessed until you travel further West and into the depths of Cornwall and, in particular, one of my favourite places on earth; Falmouth.

Everyone has their own favourite part of Cornwall, usually dictated by family summer holidays and nostalgic memories of tatty camping sites and long salty days on the vast sandy beaches. The location itself is reminiscent of much farther flung destinations; squint your eyes on a good day and you could be sitting on a beach in the Costa Blanca. Open them and there’s just enough British essence; fish and chips, lilos, sandcastles and deckchairs to remind you of where you are.

There’s a palpable shift of pace that becomes apparent as you head into Cornwall; the A30 seems to invite you into the county via the rolling countryside and dramatic landscape and on a good day, when the traffic allows, the highway offers you the sensation of gliding through the terrain with the promise of a slower pace waiting to greet you once you arrive.

That’s the romantic description of the journal into the Cornish countryside, although some might argue that the stretch from Exeter to Falmouth is a real slog, and all too often (roughly) 100 miles of hell. This all depends, of course, upon what time of day or night, or indeed the time of year you choose to travel.

I have been the victim of coastal journeys as an unwilling customer of National Express coaches during the summer holiday traffic, where the journey from Brighton to Falmouth could take anywhere upwards of 12 hours.

Regardless of this, it’s a place that I’ve been fascinated by since I was a relatively small boy, and it’s a fascination that stays with me to this day.

The River Fal Festival has been a regular feature for the town, with 2016 offering up a 7-day long, packed schedule of activities for the 11th year running.

The festival, brilliantly organised by Fal River Cornwall and supported by a whole host of local companies, such as principle sponsor, Falmouth University, Skinners Brewery, (sadly no relation), Enterprise Leisure boats and the King Harry ferry. The event is a true celebration of life around the river.

The programme for 2016 included a staggering 150 events ranging from cinema on the water with the King Harry Ferry, lots of open studios, a circus camp and a whole host of engaging events at the National Maritime Museum.

Within the programme, you’ll also find an array of river cruises, all at varying times of day and taking in different routes and stops around the river. My favourite, and the cruise that I booked onto, was the ‘Celebration of the Truro River Cruise, which meanders down the river and takes in the beautiful creeks of Cowlands and Coombe and includes, not only an incredible pasty, but enough Skinners ale to sink the proverbial ship!

This cruise took the jolly party the full length and breadth of the river in two of Falmouth’s finest Enterprise Leisure boats, heading firstly to the harbour, where we managed to witness some of the incredible super-yachts that were docked for maintenance. Surely a sign that the services and facilities in Falmouth rate amongst the best in the world? Then across in the general direction of St Mawes, where those of a certain age can enjoy a prime view of the beautiful cove and also, the lighthouse that featured in the opening credits of (the original) Fraggle Rock. A highlight for me, at least.

After a fresh stint on the water and plenty of Skinners ale being enjoyed, we pulled up against the jetty that leads directly into Trelissick Gardens, where the party continued with hot pasties, live music and a spot of archery within the Victorian brick-walled garden in the grounds.

Trelissick Gardens are, in themselves, reason enough to venture to this part of the UK. A hidden woodland garden, Trelissick enjoys far-reaching views across the water and offers canopies of Beech, sweet Chestnut, and specimen conifers, which date roughly from 1870. The main plant collections found in this stunning location range from Magnolias, Camellias, Rhododendrons to Hydrangeas with formal lawns sweeping to the unique estuary views.

The bulk of the plant collection dates from the 1930’s to the present day so it maintains a relatively modern atmosphere with references to the past reflected in the fabric of the garden. Current landowners, the National Trust have added to the impressive collection, making the gardens a rich, fascinating and essential place to explore.

Other Festival activities that we enjoyed during our week-long stay, largely centered around the children. Aged 8 months and 7 years, we took full advantage of the programme, which was packed with activities for the little ones.

The National Maritime museum certainly featured heavily in the listings, offering a wealth of fun and interactive events through the week, including ‘Thorsday’, which extended beyond the River Fal Festival programme, taking place on each and every Thursday of the school holidays and offering a chance for little (and big) people to explore the Norse men and women from the Viking Voyagers exhibition and to experience living history with Morvleydh, the Sea Wolves.

Even with our visit taking place through a week of early summertime, there’s just so much to do in and around Falmouth. Even outside from the busy timetable of events laid on by the Festival organisers, there are the incredible beaches, Pendennis Castle, which has a heritage of some 450 years, stretching from its origins as one of Henry Vlll’s coastal strongholds to its last military role as a secret Second World War base.

You have the Cornish Diving School, golf clubs, art galleries, the Ships & Castles swimming pool (adjacent to Pendennis), bowling, watersports, cinema, sailing, and live music to name a few… There’s simply too much to enjoy in a single week and so many reasons to visit Falmouth at any time of year.

We will be back!

Days 1-3: Greenbank Hotel, Falmouth

What better start to our River Fal Festival experience, than a three-night stop in Falmouth’s Greenbank Hotel? During my brief residence in Cornwall I had initially resided in the sleepy fishing village of Flushing. A quaint, quiet and extremely hilly village with a couple of decent pubs, an excellent restaurant on the quay and its very own beach adjacent to the harbour. The village itself, sits almost precisely opposite the Greenbank Hotel and I have vivid memories of watching weekend revelers enjoying their Saturday evenings at the venue, with twinkling lights and music drifting across the estuary, where I would sit with a glass or two of my own.

Dating back as a private residence to (at least) 1640, the venue has a rich and varied past. Some claims to fame include the fact that in 1907, Florence Nightingale stayed at the hotel and her name can still be seen in the guest book, which is on permanent display by the main reception. In addition to this and ranking to maneuver our modern-day suitcases through the aged corridors, I had extra hands on deck from the hotel’s porter.

With the four of us staying in a single room, we were given a long room with a huge double bed, a travel cot for the little one and a double/sofa-bed at the far end of the room. At the very far end of the room, we were treated to a stunning view across the entire estuary, which provided a rare spectacle each morning whilst getting ready for breakfast.

The food at the Greenbank ranges from fine, yet relaxed, dining in the main restaurant area, which has an entirely glass fronted (water-facing) side and boasts what must be one of the best views in the town, to a more standard ‘pub’ menu, which can be found in the Working Boat; the Greenbank’s very own pub. This resides on the waterfront quay, which doubles as a unique car park and offers fifteen beers and ciders on tap including their very own Working Boat brew.

All in all, we couldn’t have asked for a better start to our trip; from the welcome to the food, service and comfort. If you’re highly, Kenneth Grahame also stayed at the hotel between the spring and autumn of the same year. It was at this time that he wrote various letters to his son, which later formed the basis for the stories that later became the ‘Wind in the Willows’.

This vast history is apparent within every nook and cranny in the hotel. Doorways, steps and rooms all vary in height, width and scale, giving a real sense of the lives that have been led by the former occupants and owners over its many years. One such reminder of the past in this historic building is the fact that on many bedroom doors, you’ll find a plaque of the Packet ship captain who will have been assigned that room in days gone by.

Our three nights at the Greenbank entirely followed suit with these first impressions. Welcomed by the long- serving staff, we felt immediately at ease and, although it was a little of a struggle to maneuver our modern-day suitcases through the aged corridors, I had extra hands on deck from the hotel’s porter.

With the four of us staying in a single room, we were given a long room with a huge double bed, a travel cot for the little one and a double/sofa-bed at the far end of the room. At the very far end of the room, we were treated to a stunning view across the entire estuary, which provided a rare spectacle each morning whilst getting ready for breakfast.

The food at the Greenbank ranges from fine, yet relaxed, dining in the main restaurant area, which has an entirely glass fronted (water-facing) side and boasts what must be one of the best views in the town, to a more standard ‘pub’ menu, which can be found in the Working Boat; the Greenbank’s very own pub. This resides on the waterfront quay, which doubles as a unique car park and offers fifteen beers and ciders on tap including their very own Working Boat brew.

All in all, we couldn’t have asked for a better start to our trip; from the welcome to the food, service and comfort. If you’re passing through and want to treat yourselves, you could do a lot worse that the experience you’ll find here.

Days 4-5: The Alverton, Truro

The second stint of our River Fal Festival experience took us into the very heart of West Cornwall and into the City of Truro.

I’ve always been a fan of Truro and although it enjoys City status, it’s quite possibly one of the smallest cities in the UK, and I know from experience that it’s possible to complete a lap of the centre, shops included, in just a couple of hours.

Truro doesn’t enjoy the same, clear connections to the water that you’ll find in Falmouth, as it’s to be found at the nook of the river. That said, and although not instantly apparent, the meaning of the name ‘Truro’ means ‘Three Rivers’, and it’s entirely possible to travel to and from the city by water.

My connections to Truro run beyond my childhood visits and again, during my brief Cornish residency, I spent some time working in Truro, in a shop above the (then) greengrocers next to the cathedral. It’s a charming place filled with stunning architecture. Aside from the cathedral, there are many other impressive buildings to admire, including the Assembly Rooms, the Crown Courts, and Town and Coinage Flails, all demonstrating the City as Cornwall’s main retail and centre for administration. No exception to this impressive architecture is the Alverton Hotel, the second stop for our Cornish adventure; a gorgeous Grade II listed hotel dating back to 1830.

Our experience upon arrival was exceptional, personable and our room, situated at the far-end of the Alverton, has to be awarded top marks for our entire trip.

As it was, the room was separated into two sections by a stud wall, with our mega-bed and travel cot on one side, and a double sofa/bed on the other.

The bathroom was equally impressive, with a walk-in shower at one end, a regal roll-top bath at the other and twin sinks in the centre, all beautifully finished and perfectly presented with impressive finishing touches.

The Alverton has just 50 residential rooms and, although it’s a huge place, each room offers plenty of space to breathe. 15 of the 50 rooms have only recently been completed after an impressive renovation of the onsite outbuildings, which offer an incredible and unique option for groups or wedding parties to stay in relative privacy in high- end accommodation, all within a hallway or two from each other.

The real jewel in the Alverton crown is the dining experience. It’s the calling card of the hotel and a trump card that keeps its visitors returning time and again. The two AA Rosette classic-contemporary Bar & Brasserie offers a relaxing setting for its guests and the fayre on offer comprises of a wide range of British and internationally influenced dishes.

Aside from the excellent, award-­winning breakfast, which is served in the same part of the hotel as evening dinner, we were presented with some sumptuous delights, including tempura monkfish tails, which came close to standing as the ultimate plate of fish & chips and were served with crushed minted peas.

Elsewhere on the constantly changing menu, we ordered a noodle dish, served with red mullet, lemongrass, spring onions and lime and our 7 year old enjoyed a great plate of cottage pie with fries. All of this topped off with a Cornish cheese board, made up from locally produced Brie, Blue and other cheeses. Really top notch stuff and a strong dining recommendation all round.

The Alverton is a very special place. It seems that the current owners have managed to strike the perfect balance between a corporate venue and a welcoming, warm residential hotel with lots to offer. Perhaps not the most cost effective hotel in Truro, but surely the best.

Days 6-7: St Mawes Hotel, St Mawes

The final stopover of our trip. St Mawes is a picture-postcard fishing village located opposite Falmouth at the wider end of the estuary in the Roseland Peninsula.

A hotspot for holidaymakers and with plenty of moorings and anchorages in the bay, it’s a mecca for the boating and yachting community. St Mawes offers a quiet, private bolt-hole with stunning landscapes at every angle and vantage point, it’s easy to see why it’s such a popular destination for so many summer travellers.

Our accommodation for two nights was the historic St Mawes Hotel. Located directly across the road from the main quayside, where the ferries and leisure boats pull up through the day, you’ll find plenty of people ‘crabbing’ in the summer months but more importantly, where the St Mawes bakery/pasty shop resides, the hotel sits proudly over three stories in the heart of the village.

The ground level hosts the bar area of the hotel; open to all, it serves food including specialty stone-baked pizzas, a fabulous array of drinks and also puts on regular live music on certain days of the week. During the summer months the front doors are always wide open onto the street, encouraging passers-by into the informal bar and restaurant.

Above this, you’ll find the main lounge and dining area, which enjoys breathtaking panoramic views of the bay. Here we were treated to a delectable continental breakfast, made up from delicious produce, including local treats, whilst in the evening, we were presented with some of the most incredible food from the week in the most relaxed surroundings.

A recent addition to the hotel has been the in-house cinema room. A luxurious 25 seater, bespoke built room with a 160” screen, complete with HD projection and a powerful 3D sound system built in. Unfortunately for us, the room was unfinished during our visit, but we managed to take a look at the proposed space and now that it’s finished, the space is available for private hire as well as regular dining and movie nights, organised by the team at the St Mawes Hotel.

Beyond this, across the top floor and to the rear of the building lies the residential space along with an impressive private dining room and it was here that we were invited to enjoy the space that we’d call home for the next couple of days. And what a space it was.

Greeted by a nice cold bottle of Cornish sparkling wine, we settled into the sumptuous surroundings.
Unfortunately, we weren’t lucky enough to get a room with a sea view but in all honesty, it wouldn’t have made a huge difference as the furnishing and general decor was of the highest order. Top marks were awarded by my eldest who decided that the elevated bed that she got to occupy was quite simply, the ‘best thing ever’.

The renovation of the St Mawes Hotel has been expertly undertaken by David and Karen Richards, a husband and wife team that sees Karen’s finishing touches and styling throughout the building. The result of this is a warm, welcoming environment with a relaxed, homely atmosphere. So homely in fact, that they even have a handful of dog-friendly rooms for those who can’t bear to travel without their hounds.

All in all, we were extremely fortunate with the three hotels that we’ve stayed at throughout the River Fal Festival week. Three stunning examples of modern, classic and luxurious residence and just a taste of the joys that can be found around the Falmouth Estuary.