Saint-Tropez: A Luxurious Mediterranean Escape

Ever since Brigitte Bardot emerged from the Mediterranean glistening in a two-piece swimsuit in the 1956 film …And God Created Woman, the French Riviera town of Saint-Tropez has never lacked for a certain kind of beauty-and all those who would bask in its reflected glow. This is a town where people watching is a competitive sport and the chairs at waterfront cafes rotate to face the line-up of megayachts that flank the docks like jewellery; where gorgeous women teeter in six-inch stilettos along cobblestone streets with well-fed men in tow and regulars like Kate Moss and Bono blow air-kisses to each other across the room; and where getting into the right beach club requires an inside connection or a serious tip. Pulling up in a Maserati doesn’t hurt either, but you might have a hard time finding it in the sea of exotic sports cars that pack all the lots.

For many reasons-that inimitable light, the authentically decadent scene-the sun-kissed former fishing village has been a playground for the international elite since at least the 1920s, when Coco Chanel and her fashion nemesis Elsa Schiaparelli retreated here to work on their tans. Artists soon followed: Picasso, Matisse and their friends fell in love with the setting on the lush Cap Saint-Pierre peninsula, where the sun fracturing on Canoubiers Bay and the Massif des Maures provided infinite inspiration. As the French novelist Colette once put it, “No road goes through Saint-Tropez. There is only one that takes you there and goes no further. If you want to leave, you must turn back. But will you leave?”

Few ever turn back, and it’s still a very hard place to leave. Since those nascent early years, Saint-Tropez has enjoyed a prolonged golden era, rich with the kinds of stories you just can’t make up: Putt’ Daddy jet-skiing in a terry bathrobe; Mick Jagger accidentally getting locked out of the church at his own wedding (the priest was attempting to thwart paparazzi; Jagger got lost in the crowd). Glamour summered here-Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly, among other royalty, Hollywood and genuine, made it their warm-weather home for four decades. And though they might not have had jeroboams of Champagne at Nikki Beach back then, the same joie de vivre still courses through its narrow streets. It’s a sybaritic kind of indulgence that can’t be re-created in the nearby towns of Cannes or Nice, though they may try. So get a good seat at Senequier on the Quai Jean Jaures and watch the good life parade by in all its splendour as the sun sets into the sea. The real Saint-Tropez, both old and new, still thrives.

BEACH CLUBS – There is no beach-club scene in the world like the one in Saint-Tropez. Not in the Hamptons. Not in Malibu. Not in Monaco. Here, striped lounge chairs are lined up like dominoes along the three-mile Plage de Pampelonne (which, to split hairs, is technically in Ramatuelle), the longest and most photographed stretch of sand in the region, and scoring a pair of recliners is never easy-unless you arrive by yacht. Local lore has it that Bardot was often spotted rolling around on the sand with men in front of Club 55. Crowds who wanted to live out her liberated lifestyle followed, and with them, more beach clubs.

Club Les Palmiers – Wear white for this sophisticated day club attached to the hotel of the same name. It’s a decidedly under-the-radar scene that attracts locals, incognito celebrities and well-heeled travellers looking for fewer selfies but perhaps the best food on the beach. Expect fresh seafood and velvety pastas along with thumping music and a crowd that can’t get enough.

Bagatelle – With outposts in Sâo Paulo, Miami, Dubai and other fashionable destinations, it was only a matter of time before Bagatelle made its way to Saint-Tropez. The club, which opened in June, has since been added to the list of let’s-do-lunch favourites for global citizens. Grab one of the 200 sun loungers on the beach or book a private-section bed for the ultimate afternoon hideaway.

Nikki Beach – If you were looking for the party, you’ve found it. Nikki Beach has been hosting globe-trotting guests for 14 years, and the club’s cult following continues to grow each season. The “white party” runs all summer by the pool and lures boldface names by the boatload, quite literally. If you go, bring a change of clothes-those bottles of Cristal have a mind of their own.

Tahiti Beach – Dating back to 1946, the region’s oldest beach club draws a more casual set, by Saint-Tropez standards. Though it’s situated at the northern end of Pampe-lonne, Tahiti’s bright orange sunbrellas and waterfront huts make guests feel like they’ve been transported to an exotic Polynesian paradise.

NIGHTSPOTS – The all-day parties are impressive, but the glass-clinking revelry truly gets going at night-people flock here just to catch their favourite DJs spinning and hit the dance floor. The top spot is consistently Les Caves du Roy at the Hotel Byblos, where an upper-crust crowd lets loose amid contem§porary-baroque decor. It’s been a Saint-Tropez staple for nearly 40 years, with eccentric sets that fuse electro, soul and disco. The intimate leather banquets flanking the dance area will put you front and centre, but the real heavy hitters reserve private booths.

We recommend booking ahead. After a few evenings at Les Caves, you might be in the mood for a change of scene, and the VIP Room serves with nocturnal distinction: Karl Lagerfeld once called it the best club in the world. Or there’s K’Ori, the new and improved rendition of Saint-Tropez’s legendary disco, Papagayo, which transforms from a restaurant and cocktail bar into a club after dark. For those nights that call for a more relaxed atmosphere, settle in on the 200-year-old terrace of the Hotel Sube, where locals, out-of-town visitors and pretty people in the know go to mingle.

DINE – In Saint-Tropez, nearly every meal comes with a side of Instagram-perfect scenery. Some of the region’s best views can be found at La Vague d’Or at the Residence de la Pinede, run by Chef Arnaud Donck-ele. He counts three Michelin stars to his name, not to mention French Chef of the Year, and lie’s not yet 40 years old. Set in a château overlooking the beach, the restaurant trades in the kind of Provencal fare that is nothing short of remarkable. Less formal but only slightly, La Reserve Ramat-uelle can help you detox from a late night of exertion with spa-style dishes, but the pristine views may get your heart rate up again.

Regulars won’t recognize Bar du Port. What was once a hangout for salty dogs in the Old Port has been newly redone with harlequin floors, filament bulbs, and brass and leather fixtures. Not exactly a bar anymore, but the upgrade has been quite a success. Check out the lunch menu, which might include braised octopus or red mullets in shellfish foam. If you like your restaurants aged to maturity, you’ve got plenty of options.

Senequier, which is more than 125 years old, offers one of the best places to toast your fellow yachties docked just across the way. About 40 or so years younger, the Auberge des Maures does simple Provencal favourites like beef stew and comes with a rich history: Charlie Chaplin and Pablo Picasso were among the restaurant’s famed patrons. Country cooking is also the focus at the 22-year-old Aux Caprice des Deux, where the food is so artfully plated, you almost don’t want to eat it. But do. Order the eggs en cocotte with truflles.

And for that “only in Saint-Tropez” moment, there’s Dior des Lices, a summer pop-up partnership between Christian Dior and Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alleno. From May to October, take tea beside the vines twisting up the palm trees in the stunning garden of the House of Dior’s 18th-century compound, done up in classic Tropezian style: sandstone, white shutters, terra-cotta floors and oversize hearths. If you prefer your king crab with a side of cabaret, you’ll find it at L’Opera, a resto-lounge that promises patrons waterfront views by day, and dinner theatre-style performances by night.

Fire-breathers, electro-violinists and burlesque dancers take over the space after dark as docked superyachts flicker in the distance. L’Opera mixes an opulent aesthetic (hefty gold candelabras, white leather banquettes and metallic wall coverings) with boundary-pushing pieces from French photographer Philippe Shangti. His artwork, scattered throughout the space, sets a playful yet provocative tone: One features a bikini-clad model with NO PROSTITUTION HERE scrawled across her chest in permanent marker; another, mounted just above a table for four, reads ENJOY YOUR *$%#@ DINNER. At L’Opera, it would be impossible not to.

SPEND

Every major brand has an outpost here, but for a truly Tropezian experience that you can bring home with you, rise early on Tuesday or Saturday and head to the Place des Lices. Like Paris’ puces but on a much smaller scale, the outdoor market offers everything from fine linen shorts to local cheeses and hand-woven hats. On Sundays, hop into your rented Lamborghini and head west to the tiny hamlet of Grimaud, where a sort of high-end swap meet called Les Jas des Roberts has become a hive for socialites sifting through skinny jeans and old records. Arrive at 5. Of course, you can’t go home without a gift, and the perfect female-friendly souvenir is found at Atelier Rondini. The peninsula’s signature strappy gladiator flats have been made and sold here, and only here, since 1927.

STAY

Hotel Byblos – Lebanese billionaire Jean-Prosper Gay-Para opened his storied hotel just as Saint-Tropez was hitting the high-society radar in 1967, and it’s been making noise ever since. Composed of terra-cotta buildings with brightly painted shutters encircling a pool, it has the feel of a humble (though luxurious) Provencal village. But just a few steps from your cream-colored room, other personalities emerge: There’s the infinitely romantic Alain Ducasse restaurant (choose a wrought-iron table outside); the Sisley spa, with a room transported from a 17th-century palace in Beirut; and of course, Les Caves du Roy, one of the hottest clubs in town.

Hotel de Paris Saint-Tropez – Interior designer Sybille de Margerie recast this icon on the Traverse de la Gendarmerie to reflect the flamboyance of the ’60s and 70s. Inside the 52 rooms and 38 suites, you’ll find mid-century furnishings, plush throw pillows and mosaic-tiled bathrooms with rain showers. Repeat guests know to take lunch in the rooftop lounge, Les Toits, where swimsuits are acceptable attire; the glass pool is suspended over the atrium lobby, affording spectacular views from below and Riviera vistas from above. The concierge can secure you an impossible-to-find pair of loungers at most of the top beach clubs and will shuttle you there gratis.

Hotel Le Yaca – Le Yaca prides itself on its location, secreted away in the maze of lanes far from the crowds. The 18th-century former townhouse at the bottom of the Citadel shows its age proudly with heavy exposed beams, wrought-iron balustrades and terra-cotta floor tiles. Its enchanting garden and pool have made Le Yaca a great hideaway for paparazzi-allergic guests from Greta Garbo to Jean Paul Gaultier. If you like your nights on the Riviera quiet, then this is the retreat for you.

Explore – Ruled by the Moors during the 9th and 10th centuries, Ramatuelle lies just south of the official borders of Saint-Tropez. It’s where all the best beaches are, and it’s only a few miles away. Sainte-Maxime, across the bay, is protected from those famous mistral winds, turning it into a sunny haven for families (there’s a water park here) and adventurers looking to scuba and windsurf off the sugar-sand beaches. The fortified village of Grimaud, built by the Grimaldis, is renowned for its 11th-century castle and gallery nights that pack the streets on Thursdays from July through September. Nearby, the affordable inland town of Gassin, where Mission: Impossible’s Emma-nuelle Beart was born, is known for its winding streets, wineries and ancient houses, all kept intact.

Rent a Riva – The slim-lined mahogany Aquarama-Riva’s most celebrated runabout design-was in production for just 35 years beginning in 1962, but it’s still the stuff’ of legend. The Ferrari of the boat world has secured its place in popular culture, starring in films like Golden Eye and Ocean’s Twelve and luxury ad campaigns with Charlize Theron and Jude Law. They’re hard to come by, but boy do they turn heads whenever they glide into a slip. While the new-model Rivarama has modern appeal, it’s hard to beat the old-school original, which is easily the sexiest thing on water. Check boatbook-ings.com and suncap.fr for a selection of Aquaramas available for captained charters by the day or week. Prices start at around R27 000 per day.

The Citadel – Make the steep hike up the wooded hill to this 17th-century castle overlooking town-it’s worth it. The fort, built to stave off the feisty Spaniards, is almost as impressive as the unobstructed views, but the star might be the award-winning museum in the dungeon, which opened in 2013. The Museum of Maritime History chronicles man’s relationship with the sea with interactive exhibits, waterlogged maps and other intriguing ephemera from the area’s 500-year-old maritime past.

La Tarte Tropezienne – Bardot played her part in this one, too. When the French beauty was first filming in town, she fell in love with a fluffy little brioche pastry made by baker Alexandre Micka, which he’d split in half and fill with two types of sweet cream. After becoming a regular, she begged him to give her favourite treat a name. Now you find Tarte Tropeziennes all over the world, but to sample the best version fresh, hit the counter at Aux Deux Freres, at 3 Rue des Commercants.