Escaping To Another World: JHARKHAND, KERALA, MAHARASHTRA

JHARKHAND

PAINTED HOUSES OF HAZARIBAGH – The tribal peoples of this thickly forested region in northern Jharkhand know a thing or two about decor. The elaborately painted houses of Hazaribagh and Purulia are an ancient, matriarchal tradition—and they are absolutely stunning. Painted on inner walls during the marriage season, the Khovar drawings are for fertility, while the Sohrai type, on outer walls, celebrates cattle and the harvest. The techniques and motifs are fascinating. The women apply an undercoat of black, covered over with white or ‘dhudhiya mitti’. Then the silica is scraped off with brooms, combs and even fingernails to reveal marvellous graffito depictions. Hazaribagh is 96km/2hrs from Ranchi by road.

NETARHAT – Sir Edward Gait, colonial governor of Bihar and Orissa, found the balmy climes and enchanting verdure of this pretty little hill town on the Chhottanagpur Plateau just the perfect retreat from the punishing Indian summer. His ‘court’ followed his entourage like lemmings. Today it is Jharkhand’s most popular hill station with its beautiful walks and glorious sunset and sunrises. Magnolia Point is linked to the ill-fated liaison of a governor’s daughter and a tribal boy. For more sunset views head for Koel View Point or the Palmau Dak Bungalow. The Netarhat Public School set up by Charles Napier is worth a visit. The nearest railway station is Ranchi, which is 154 kms away.

SARANDA – Once a private game preserve of the Singh Deo royals of Saraikela, the 820 sq km Saranda sanctuary located in West Singhbhum district, offers visitors rewarding wilderness experiences amidst its rich sal forests and botanical wealth. Saranda, which literally means seven hundred hills, falls along the elephant corridor from the nearby forests of Odisha’s Keonjhar district and is still the ancient stamping grounds of the Asiatic elephant, bison and leopard. Sightings have been reported of the elusive tiger. Fed by the Karo and Koina rivers, this pristine sanctuary is a botanist’s delight with an abundance of plant life. The region is also home to the Ho tribesmen. The nearest airports are at Jamshedpur and Ranchi.

KERALA

BACKWATERS – Its network of canals and streams have long attracted visitors to the Kullanad and Alapuzha regions of Kerala. Best experienced on one of those iconic kettuvalloms—traditional rice boats transformed into floating luxury hotels. Gliding down the limpid waters, and simply watching the swaying palms and village life as you glide past can be mesmerising. Time seems to stand still, and the cares of the world wither away. A typical itinerary can entail stopovers at palaces and temples, museums and markets. The Kochi airport is 64kms from the Alappuzha backwaters.

MUZIRIS – Tales of Kerala’s links with the spice trade in the ancient world still offer a compelling window into India’s maritime history. The legacy of the lost port of Muziris, which vanished without trace almost 3,000 years ago, is being revived, when a chance monsoon deluge at Pattanam village laid bare remnants of this lost world. Not only spices, but gold and precious gems, textiles and other sundry items left these shores on sailing ships to the lucrative markets of Greece and Rome. Today the Muziris Heritage Porject is working apace to revive, conserve and showcase its cultural heritage. The Cochi International Airport is about 20kms away.

PERIYAR – A world of deep silences, pristine forestlands and rich wildlife, Periyar is one of India’s most intriguing wilderness areas. Though much of it closed to tourist activity, you may still enjoy dipping into parts of its magical spaces. The Periyar National Park here is open all year round— thus allowing visitors to share the many moods of this vast landscape. A favoured haunt of the Asiatic elephant, Periyar is the place to explore their world. You can survey this world on elephant-back, by boat safari or on a trek through the jungle. You can also participate in some of the ecotourism activities on offer. The Kochi Airport is about 140kms from Periyar.

MAHARASHTRA

AJANTA – A Unesco World Heritage Site, Ajanta, with its 30 extraordinary rock-cut caves, renowned for their Buddhist frescoes, sprawls along a horseshoe-shaped escarpment overlooking the Waghora gorge. Hidden for centuries, they were accidentally discovered in 1819 by a British officer named John Smith. Ajanta’s art falls into two groups—the Hinayana phase of Buddhism, when the Buddha was represented by symbols, and the Mahayana period, when artistic expression was more exuberant. The site is usually visited along with the Ellora Caves and accessed from Aurangabad, 107kms away.

LONAR – An astonishing natural site, the Lonar Lake, located in the tiny hamlet of Lonar in Maharashtra’s Buldana district, remains surprisingly untouched by tourism. It became famous when it was discovered that the lake bed was actually a crater formed nearly 50,000 years ago when a meteorite careered into the basaltic rock here. Its diameter of 1,800m makes it the world’s largest crater. Legend has it that Ram and Sita bathed in the lake during their exile from Ayodhya. Picnicking families explore the ruins of some Hindu temples on its shores. Tranquil and remote, the crater is rich in birdlife. It is best visited from Aurangabad, 150kms away.

TADOBA – Named after a tribal god, ‘Taru’, who apparently died fighting a tiger, Tadoba National Park is a gem of a wildlife preserve, consciously maintaining its pristine ecosystem. Located in Maharashtra’s Chandarpur district, it is a Project Tiger reserve. Tadoba is a magical place, and wildlife buffs can expect some wondrous moments tiger-spotting in this botanical haven. Other denizens here include the leopard, Indian bison, wild dogs and sloth bear, apart from 181 species of birds. The sheer profusion of animals, the close-quarter viewing and the abundant beauty of the reserve make this a special experience. It can be accessed from Nagpur, 3hrs away.

MANIPUR

LOKTAK LAKE – Serene and breathtakingly gorgeous, Loktak Lake is one of the loveliest destinations in the Northeast. It’s also home to the 40sq km Keibul Lamjao National Park, the world’s only floating wildlife sanctuary. This is where you come seeking Manipur’s graceful brow-antlered ‘dancing deer’, or the sangai, living on its unique habitat of bowl-shaped islands— phumdi (made of weeds), which float on the surface of the lake, a big attraction for birders. Boats are available for hire. Plan a trip during the annual Sangai Festival, held in November. It can be accessed from Imphal, just 45kms away.

MEGHALAYA

CAVING – Meghalaya is fast emerging as a hot-spot for caving with 1,284 registered caves to be explored; a caver’s paradise with most of the deepest and longest of South Asia’s caves located here. What’s making business pick up are the several professional outfitters who are now leading these spelunking tours in familiar terrains. The Shnong Rim area in the Jaintia Hills offers different caving experiences. The limestone caves around Mawsynram are a big favourite with tourists—with Krem Mawjymbuin just a short hop away. Also in the Khasi Hills is Krem Mawmluh, reputed to be the sub-continent’s fourth-longest cave, along with the Siju Caves in the Garo hills, which is the third-longest cave system. Best accessed from Shillong.

NAGALAND

DZUKOU VALLEY – Trekkers visiting Northeast India should rejoice as the trail to Dzukou on the Manipur-Nagaland border is not only aptly challenging, but also breathtakingly scenic. The trek is facilitated by the Manipur Mountaineering and Trekking Association (MMTA). Its base camp is located at Mt. Issi, from where it’s a five-hour walk upwards. Beautiful lilies and rhododendron flowers are plentiful in the valley, along with a pristine stream that has the propensity to freeze during the winters. If you’re feeling even more adventurous, the Japfu Peak is at 3,940m. The valley is 15kms south of Kohima.

KOHIMA – This is a tranquil town, and why wouldn’t it be if it literally means ‘the land where the flower kewhi grows’? It may not be as large or populous as Dimapur, even though it is the capital of Nagaland, but it certainly is more intrinsically connected to the Naga culture. While you are here, be sure to visit the Catholic Cathedral and watch it glimmer in its crimson radiance. When you’re done, tread to the World War II Memorial built to honour the state’s valiant soldiers. And finally, take a stroll around the city’s supermarkets to purchase some locally produced trinkets and Naga shawls. Dimapur is the nearest airport, 74kms away.

MON – Located in Nagaland, Mon is not for the faint hearted. The Konyak tribe that inhabits its slopes is known for its warrior culture just as much as its grisly past—that of headhunting. Even the journey to reach the Mon village of Nyahnyu Konyak is an extremely challenging one. The best time to visit would be for the Aeleong Festival, the annual spring festival, when the tribe fully displays the intricacies of its traditions. The festival day, 4th April, is packed with great pomp and show. Other than this, adventure enthusiasts visiting Mon can partake in plenty of activities such as trekking, angling and birding. Jorhat in Assam, 161kms away, is the closest airport.