The Uncommon Gems Of Jammu & Kashmir

DOODHPATHRI – A delightful 40km drive from Srinagar to Budgam district brings you to the ‘valley of milk’—Doodhpathri, an apt name it would appear for this splendid expanse of the Kashmir valley. For the rich grasses of its pastures—the Parhacemaidan and Doodhpathri, are so nourishing that the plentiful milk from the cattle gives the villagers ample reason to be happy. The pastures with their wildflowers and sweet grasses lie in the cool embrace of two rivers—the Shaliganga and the Sokhnag. The crystalline depths of the waters are icy cold but just perfect to cool off on a sunny day, before setting off on your explorations of the verdant surrounds where shepherds watch over their flocks by day. It’s not just the sweet meadow-lands and the obliging cows which give Doodhpathri its name—apparently the waters take on a milky hue as they bounce along the rocks scattered along the bed of the stream.

By night it’s just the most congenial spot for a camp-out in a tent and watching the stars light up the night —and on a full moon night pick out the surrounding hills studded with the homes of other hamlet dwellers…and further on the muted glow of the snow-mantled peaks of the Diskhil range. This vast expanse of pastoral delight is a haven for its botanical wealth and geological diversity; five very ancient underground brick kilns have been found near Parhacemaidan, making it a most intriguing find as the region was pretty uninhabited for some time, being quite remote and cut off by snow for almost half the year. One can visit the shrine mosque of Hazrat Shiekh Noor-ud-Din Wali, a mystic who lived in these parts for many years.

The darghah is sited by seven lovely springs. Engaging the services of a knowledge-able guide would add new dimensions to explorations here. The administrative office of the Doodhpathri Development Authority is a good place to explore this possibility, as there are serious plans to develop the tourism potential of the area, which still lacks basic tourist infrastructure. There are plenty of walking trails in the pastures and the nearby mountains, where a good local guide is recommended to enjoy the potential of this off-beat spot as a holiday destination.

LOLAB-DRANGYARI-BANGUS – Just 3.5 hours away from Srinagar (120km), the unspoiled vistas of the Lolab-Drangyari-Bangus region in Kupwara district are ideal for a lovely driving holiday. Bangus is a mere 50km from Lolab, from where Drangyari is 28km away. The region is accessed from Kupwara town via Chowkibal. Sheltered by lofty Himalayan peaks, the Lolab Valley (9km from Kupwara) is amongst one of the loveliest of J&K’s off-the beaten-path offerings as a tourist destination. Of archeological interest here is Satbarran, an unusual rock face protruding from a hillock skirting the outer reaches of Madmav Village, in the Kala Roos area.

There are seven doors of which one still opens on to an inner chamber in this cave-like structure. Legend has it that this secret passageway once led through the heart of the mountains to join the Silk Route. The gorgeous Nagmarg Meadow is a riot of wildflowers and sweet grasses on which the local ponies fatten themselves. Enjoy the lovely views of Wular Lake, Kaj-i-Nag, Kaghan and the Pir Panjal from this beautiful and tranquil setting. Take a guided trek from here to Bandipora. One can stay at the lovely Tourist Bungalow at Chandigam village. At Nagsari Village, one can enjoy a spot of trout fishing in the Moorki stream. Tourist accommodation is available at beautifully located Khamrial village as well.

It’s a compelling drive through the approach route to the stunning Drangyari Valley with its beautiful meadows, springs and snowmelt streams against the backdrop of the lofty Shamsabari range. Make it a day trip to the pristine beauty of the Sadhna Pass which debouches into the remote Karnah Valley. You can spend the night back in the beautifully located tourist rest house at Panzgam by the Kehmil Nallah. The superb meadows at Bangus, lying in the steady embrace of the Shamsabari and Leepa mountain ranges and Rajwar and Mawar areas, are just 13km away—perfect for guided day-treks, picnics and photo-ops.JKTDC offers a tour package of the region, which is perfect for first-time visits.

VERINAG – It was a place beloved for both Mughal emperor Jehangir and his queen Nur Jehan. The pair is inextricably united with the romance and invasive charm of this beautiful slice of the Vale of Kashmir, filled with balmy breezes whispering sweet nothings in the chinars and poplars, during the short spring and summer. Today, Nur Jehan’s meticulously planned garden (in close co-ordination with her royal spouse who was an avid botanist) is a shadow of its past glory with its pavilions in ruins and walkways an evocative reminder of the emperor and his queen strolling, across the sunny water courtyard, to the pool formed by the natural subterranean Verinag spring. This sacred spring is said to be the source of the Jhelum River which runs through Srinagar.

The octagonal structure embracing the pool around which the traditional char bagh pleasure garden and the grand royal residence was gathered was commissioned by Jehangir. The emperor was so enamoured by this serene spot, he expressed a serious desire to be buried here by this beautiful spring; but when he died while travelling in the mountains, because of the approaching winter, his mortal remains were taken away to be interred in Lahore instead. Today, picnicking families stream through the ruined garden with its flowerbeds and beautiful trees, its scattered remnants of the Shahjehan-era pavilions and royal baths, kids swim and dive in the waterway… others just stop and gaze upon the flash of sunlight on the pool’s icy turquoise water reflecting the graceful creamy arches of the surrounding cool and shadowed arcades. Look here for the inscriptions dating the complex to Jehangir’s days.

There’s not much left of the palace itself, but what there is offers a window to the splendour of its glory days. The quiet of the place invites you to sit down and ponder under the spreading chinar trees—while itinerant breezes, in heat of the approaching noon, bring you the evanescent scents snatched from the sprawl of roses in the flowerbeds. Read… take photos… paint watercolours… slip into a day dream of Mughal times—how appropriate is all this is in this lovely place. Exiting the Mughal complex one encounters the ancient shrine of Lord Shiva—the Nilanag temple, where Hindu devotees pay obeisance to this day, doing the parikrama of the sacred tank and feeding the fish.

YUSMARG – The legend of Jesus Christ’s lost years and his purported sojourn in the Kashmir valley (during that period) is kept alive by the very name of this pretty township, just 47 km from Srinagar. ‘Yus’ means Jesus and ‘marg’ meadow—meaning the meadow through which Jesus passed through on his travels through the valley. There’s not much else here to commemorate this momentous event, but what you have instead is a fabulous slice of Kashmir’s beauteous countryside, in Budgam district, to enjoy a slow-paced holiday.

The towering peaks of the Pir Panjal range shelter these lush meadowlands from the fierce winds. The best way, of course, to enjoy this glorious tract of nature, is to set out exploring the several (gentle) walking and (more demanding) hiking trails which bring you up-close and personal with the friendly inhabitants of the settlements around these parts. A shared glass of kahwa and some fragrant bread, at a teashop, offer many variations of enjoyment and interactions with the local community. A trail leading to the site of Yusmarg Club brings you through rolling meadows watered by the Doodhganga River, 2km out of Yusmarg.

The area is perfect for a leisurely picnic and a spot of licensed fishing. The 4km hike to Gogi Pathri village brings you to the splendid environs of the Nilnag Lake, skirted by the vistas of the nearby Hajun meadow. The Doodhpathri meadow too can be accessed from Yusmarg, but it’s a 20km trek and can be planned in conjunction with the tourist office. Less demanding are pony rides through the meadow-lands and picnics by the local streams. You can visit the ancient dargah—Charar-e-Sharief, of sufi saint Sheikh Noor-ud-din Wali, located about 18km from Yusmarg. The saint is revered by both Muslims and Hindus. Suffused in deep silences and a tranquil air, the site is balm for the souls of all who enter this hallowed site.

KOKERNAG – A 70km drive from Srinagar to the Bringhi Valley in Anantnag district brings you to the pleasant environs of Kokernag—the centrepiece of which is thefabulous Botanical Garden and the spring. Surrounded by towering chinars and chestnuts, and beyond that the Himalayan ranges, the mosaic of jewelled-greens of the Kokernag Botanical Garden spreads over 26 hectares. It’s quite the haven for birders. You can wake up at sunrise and soak up the visuals of a multitude of avifauna scrabbling for room amongst the trees and hedges while occasionally swooping down for a drink in the stream that waters this verdant area.

What’s great is that you don’t have to venture too far as the tourist rest house lies in the embrace of this beauteous setting. For avid gardeners too this is an adventure as they explore the sprawl of ornamental plants, trees, bushes, topiary ornamentation, roses and wild flora sourced from across the Kashmir Valley. Of great delight too are the picturesque Japanese bridges set over the trout-rich roiling stream, the scattering of ponds, and well planned garden seats. The garden is a riot of colours in spring and mesmerising with the colours of fall as winter approaches.

Later in the day the garden fills up with picnicking families. You can also try your hand at trout fishing as Kokernag is also home to what is purportedly Asia’s largest trout fishery unit, operated by the J&K fisheries department. There’s a training institute at the site where you can explore the processes of breeding rainbow and brown trout in a protected environment. The Paspashudan Nag spring, Kashmir’s largest spring, is revered for its healing properties and is also the biggest one among the seven natural springs that abound at Kokernag.

GUREZ – The state government in recent years has been quietly opening up and developing some of the prettiest new areas in the Valley for tourism. For the adventure lover, chief amongst these jewels has been the twin valleys of Gurez and Talial, set in the remote areas of the Indo-Pak border in Bandipore District, which is fed by the beautiful Kishanganga River. This gorgeous stretch of land is sheltered by the inner folds of the Great Himalayas on the ancient caravan route to Gilgit in POK— an evocative reminder of the role it played in the ‘Great Game’ of one-upmanship between the British Empire and Tsarist Russia, to control the region during the days of the Raj. Today, the Line of Control (LoC) runs through the valley.

There’s a mountain here, which separates the twin valleys and commemorates the legend of Kashmiri poetess Habba Khatoon (Zoonie) who loved the Kashmiri king Yousuf Shah Chak, and spent time pining for her great love in these parts during his imprisonment by Mughal emperor Akbar. Visitors can stay at the neat tourist guesthouse in the principle township of Dawar, which served as the capital of Dardistan in earlier times. Today, it offers important historic and archaeological insights into the region. The best season is June-September when winter loosens its hold on this snowbound region. Accessed through the Rajdhan Pass, from where you get elusive glimpses of the Harmukh Peak, a good time to visit this frontier area is during the annual Gurez Festival, held in August. Permits can be collected from the Superintendent of Police/Deputy Director Tourism, Tourism Enforcement Counter, TRC Srinagar.

The two-day Gurez Festival captures the very essence of the many cultural delights of the Shina-speaking Dards, amongst Kashmir’s oldest tribal peoples, who were separated from their people in Astore, Gilgit and Chilas with the introduction of the LoC. In August, when the burgeoning crowds of visitors, locals and smattering of VIPS gather here, the weather is balmy despite a nip in the air. The festival is a compelling mix of folk dance and music jamborees punctuated by theatrical performances by local artistes. A modern day edge to the proceedings is provided by a slew of adventure sports activities such as rafting on the Kishanganga River, cycling, zorbing and trekking virginal trails with local guides to engage the adventure hungry. The Gurez Festival has proved to be an excellent platform to bring this remote region into the ambit of the state’s tourism agenda.

Gurezi cuisine, which can be enjoyed at the festival, is directed by seasonal offerings. Fresh vegetables are scarce during the s-month-long snowbound winters—so the community hoards up vegetables and grain for this hard period of fierce winds and punishing blizzards. Gurezi fare is hearty, nutritious and back to basics. Before rice was introduced, a cereal-like grain called ping was the staple base for meals as are Trumba ki roti and naanwai roti. Potatoes, lentils, rajma and turnips are kitchen staples as well. For non-veg visitors there are meat curries to die for. A delicious snack is kalari, a strong rich cheese made from sheep’s milk. A hot favourite is its pakora avatar, served with green chilli chutney; bread pakoras are available readily in market stalls. Butter tea (strong) is the beverage of choice everywhere at all times.