Weekend In Bruges

FRIDAY EVENING

Den Gouden Harynck – Start the weekend with a high at this Michelin-starred restaurant in a secluded 17th-century house in the museum district. Mains such as lobster and duck are classically treated by chef Philippe Serruys who has also compiled an interesting wine list.

‘T Brugs Beertje – Legendary throughout Bruges and beyond for its hundreds of brews, this cosy brown cafe is filled with old ad posters, and locals who are part of the furniture. It’s one of those perfect bars with smoke-yellowed walls, enamel signs, hop-covered ceilings and knowledgeable staff to helpyou choose from a book full of brews.

Concertgebouw – Catch a classical concert at Bruges’ concession to modernity. This stunning 21st-century concert hall takes its design cues from the city’s three famous towers and red bricks. Theatre, classical music and dance are regularly staged: highlights in February include a visit by the London Philharmonic and the sensory-deprivation show Dark Was the Night.
SATURDAY

Markt – Start the day with a coffee in this large open square flanked by medieval-style buildings and filled with horse-drawn carriages and open-air restaurants. Climb the 366 steps of Unesco-listed 13th-century Belfort to get your bearings on the city. Back on the ground, grab some frites from the ever-present takeaway vans.

Burg – The Burg, filled with gorgeously gaudy buildings, has been the city’s administrative hub for centuries. Explore the Brugse Vrije’s remarkable 1531 carved chimneypiece and the colourful murals of the Gothic hall in the Stadhuis. Then see the city’s most sacred relic-a phial said to contain drops of Christ’s blood -in the Heilig-Bloedbasiliek.

Café Vlissinghe – Finish the day at Bruges’ oldest pub, which first opened its doors in 1515.The interior is gorgeously preserved with wood panelling and a wood-burning stove, and local legend has it that Rubens once painted an imitation coin on the table here and then did a runner. Fill up on the likes of croque sandwiches, cheese and meat platters, fish or onion soup.

SUNDAY

Groeningemuseum – Start with a potted history of Belgian art, with an outstanding collection of Flemish Primitive and Renaissance works. There are intriguing early images of the city as well as an eye-popping Bosch. Other works include Jan Van Eyck’s The Virgin and Child with Canon van der Paele (1436.

Memlingmuseum – Six glowing masterpieces by 15th-century artist Hans Mem ling are exhibited in this restored chapel of a 12th-century hospital building, including the enchanting Reliquary of St Ursula. Your ticket also covers a visit to the St Janshospitaal, with various historical medical instruments and paintings, plus a 17th-century pharmacy.

Begijnhof – Wander to the 13th-century begijnhof, where residents of the pretty, whitewashed garden complex include a convent of nuns. Just inside the entrance, ‘t Begijnhuisje is a charming 17th-century house converted into a domestic museum. Stroll down a tranquil backstreet to De Stoepa for bistro-style food.

TRANSPORT – First, fly to Brussels International Airport with BA, BMI Regional, Brussels Airlines and easyjet from various UK airports, or to Brussels South Charleroi with Ryanair, or get the Eurostar to Brussels Gare du Midi from London St Pancras. From Brussels, get the bus or train to Bruges. Bruges’ train station is a mile south of Markt-a scenic 20-minute walk – or catch a taxi or bus into town. The city is best explored on foot.

WHERE TO STAY

Enter Hotel Patritius, an 1830s townhouse, through the tall carriageway. Up the historic spiral staircase, 16 guest rooms vary radically in size and style, some with exposed beams, others chintzy or renovated in a bolder style.

Featuring the distinctive ceramics of Martine Bossuyt, Number 11 is a top-notch b&b, with logoed linens and pralines on the pillow. There’s a private salon and courtyard garden for the handful of guests.

Occupying a medieval house, Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is a luxurious boutique hotel that’s graced with art, antiques, Persian carpets and fresh orchids. The16 rooms are full of designer fittings.