Activities in Graubünden

St Moritz

SKIING – With 217 miles of slopes, ultramodern lifts and spirit-soaring views, skiing here is a treat, especially for more confident intermediates. For groomed slopes with big vistas, head to Corviglia, accessible by funicular from Dorf. There’s varied skiing at Corvatsch, above Silvaplana, including spectacular glacier descents and the gentle black run Hahnensee.

EATING – Chesa Veglia, a slate-roofed chalet, is St Moritz’s oldest restaurant, dating from 1658. Inside the softly lit, wooden-floored interior are two bars and three restaurants: Pizzeria Heuboden does decent wood-oven pizzas, while Patrizier Stuben offers regional specialities such as creamy barley soup and venison with egg noodles.

MUSEUM – Six miles from St Moritz, Sils-Maria is a chocolate-box village of pastel-painted chalets set against rugged, glacier-capped mountains. Nietzsche spent his summers from 1881 to 1888 here, writing the likes of Thus Spake Zarathustra. His chalet is now a museum, containing photos, memorabilia and letters.

Laax

SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING – The high-altitude trio of Flims, Laax and Falera forms the Weisse Arena ski area, with 136 miles of slopes catering to all levels, and 37 miles of cross-country trails. Laax draws in party-loving snowboarders seeking big air: it’s home to both Europe’s smallest and largest half-pipes, excellent freestyle parks and many off-piste opportunities.

EATING – Cavigilli is Flims’ oldest house, dating to 1453, and comprises a Gothic parlour and an elegant beamed dining room. The emphasis is on showcasing market-fresh produce in dishes such as beef with black garlic, artichoke, chanterelles, potato, chorizo and rocket, and venison with red cabbage, kohlrabi, sea buckthorn and butternut squash.

THERMAL SPA – Built using 60,000 slabs of quartzite, Therme Vais in Valsertal is one of the country’s most enchanting thermal spas. Aside from heated indoor and outdoor pools, this grey-stone labyrinth hides all sorts of watery nooks and crannies, cleverly lit and full of atmosphere. You can drift away in 42°C bath-warm waters, sweat it out in the steam room and cool down in the teeth-chattering Eisbad.

 Davos and Klosters

SKIING – Parsenn beckons confidence building novices, while experts can tackle black runs such as panoramic Schlappin and Gotschnawang. Davos is a cross-country hot spot, with 46 miles of well-groomed trails, plus a flood lit track for starlight swishing. Schweizer Schneesportschule is one of the best ski schools in the country.

EATING – Warm brick and wood, rustling newspapers and mellow music create a relaxed feel in Davos’s arty Kaffee Klatsch. Try the delicious filled focaccia, or stop by for cake with a speciality coffee such as vanilla bean or Heidi latte (made with roasted organic oats).The adjacent craft shop sells kitsch-free Swiss gifts.

MUSEUM – The giant cube that is the Kirchner Museum showcases the world’s largest Ernst Ludwig Kirchner (1880-1938) collection. The German expressionist lived in Davos for the last 20 years of his life and painted scenes of the area. The museum also regularly features works by other leading expressionists.

 TRANSPORT – BA, easyjet and Swiss fly to Zurich Airport from Gatwick, Heathrow, London City and Luton. Regular trains run from Zurich to St Moritz, while trains to Davos take 2Va hrs. In Davos and Klosters, the Guest Card allows free travel on local buses and trains, as does the general ski pass. For the Weisse Arena area, buses run from Chur train station, IV2 hrs from Zurich Airport.

WHERE TO STAY

Posta Veglia in Laax, the 19th-century former post office, delivers seven country-cottage-style rooms, with suites filled with beams and antiques. There’s also a feted wood-panelled restaurant.

In the heart of St Moritz, Hotel Eden centres on an antique-strewn lounge where a fire crackles in winter. The pine-panelled rooms are cosy and those on the top floor afford terrific lake and mountain views.

Spend the night in an igloo at Iglu Dorf in the Parsenn ski area of Davos Klosters. After mulled wine, fondue and a bubble in the whirlpool, you’ll barely notice the temperatures.