How to Get Around
Cars can be rented from various airports but caution is advised as roads can be poorly lit at night and many drivers tend towards reckless. Caribe Tours runs daily air-conditioned buses connecting the country’s main cities and towns, including Cabarete, Jarabacoa and Santo Domingo and as far as Barahona on the southwest coast. After that, to reach Laguna de Oviedo and Pedernales, you’ll be reliant on the guaguas – local minivans that are crammed and mostly without signage or regular timetables.
How Long to Spend
Occupying two-thirds of the island of Hispaniola, the Dominican Republic is surprisingly large and its mountain and coastal roads can be long and winding. It’s possible to complete this route in just 10 days, but that would be an unnecessary rush: the Caribbean runs on beach time and things move at an unhurried pace, especially along the north coast. Consider a fortnight, but ideally extend that to three weeks or more to allow time for activities such as hiking, surfing and – of course – late nights practising those merengue moves.
What to Budget
Apart from the more expensive tourist resort of Punta Cana, the Dominican Republic is very affordable compared to other Caribbean countries. Expect to pay around £20 for budget accommodation, but up to £175 for an upmarket jungle cabana with all mod-cons, infinity pool and beach views. Excursions and day trips rarely cost more than £70. Budget-conscious travellers will love the inexpensive yet tasty street food; roast pork belly chicharrones (fried pork bits) and a frosty Presidente beer, for instance, total a bargain £2.
When to Go
The Dominican Republic can be battered by occasional tropical storms, particularly during August and September. Weather-wise, the cooler high season from December to late February is the best all-rounder, with few tropical showers and long afternoons of sunshine. But bear in mind that during Christmas and New Year prices are at their peak and the beaches can get crowded.
Who Can Help
If you’d like to leave the organisation – and driving – to someone else, Caribbean Tours can arrange 10-day trips covering Cabarete, Jabaracoa Santo Domingo, Laguna de Oviedo and Bahia de las Aguilas.
On the Road
Eat. Tostones – The Dominican Republic would strike tomorrow if its beloved twice-fried plantain chips were taken off the menu. Served with everything from fried chicken to grilled meats and lobster, these carb nuggets are Caribbean gold.
Drink. A santo libre – It’s not Cuba, where everyone drinks rum over ice with a slice of lime. Dominicans sweeten their rum drink with a lemon and lime mixer such as Sprite.
Read. Peruvian Nobel Prize-winner Mario Vargas Llosa’s The Feast of the Goat, a brutally honest take on the dictatorship and assassination of former Dominican president and all-round villain Rafael Trujillo.
Dance. The bachata – Dominicans love merengue but they love bachata just as much. It’s a moodier, down-tempo routine based on a one-two-three-four side-step shuffle. For Strictly Come Dancing fans, it’s like a bolero but in slow-motion.
Try it Once – Mamajuana, an aperitif of rum, red wine and honey soaked in a bottle stuffed with tree bark and herbs. It’s syrupy sweet, but be warned: locals A consider it an alternative to Viagra.
Bring it Back. Artisanal organic chocolate bars, as sold at Santo Domingo’s Choco Museum. Local cocoa farmers supply upmarket chocolate makers Green & Black’s and Valrhona with trinitario beans, renowned for their intense flavour.
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