Chhattisgarh – Journey For The Soul

To a traveller, Chhattisgarh promises a journey, that is almost paradisiacal — undulating hills, land bursting with bright green paddy fields, zigzagging tributaries plunging white waterfalls and dense forests—all hold timeless secrets of nature. It is said that even Lord Ram walked on this land during his exile. The intense cultural magnetism holds no lesser draw.

More than forty tribes, still rooted to their culture, traditions and a history shrouded in enigma, inhabit the state. Incredible biodiversity at National Parks and Sanctuaries, ancient Hindu temples, Buddhist monuments, unique tribal practices and local handicrafts converge here to make this a pulsating land to satiate the curiosity of a traveller.

TEMPLES – Spiritual fervour runs deep in Chhattisgarh. With the social composition enveloped in reverence to a million local deities and nature, it is not uncommon to see a number of large and small shrines sprinkled in the state.

MAHAMAYA TEMPLE, RATANPUR – Dedicated to the dual deity of Goddesses Mahishasur Mardini, the Mahamaya Temple lies 25km from Bilaspur. Though the temple started getting constructed in the 12-13th century, several additions embellished it over the course of time. Influences of the Nagara style of architecture still make for the most prominent architectural features in it.

BAMLESHWARI TEMPLE, DONGAR – The 1,600 ft-high perch of the shrine gives it a vantage position to have devotees make that extra effort to pay homage to the deity, Goddess Bamleshwari. The legend of the temple goes back to 2,200 years ago. A local King by the name of Raja Veersen, who could not conceive a child with his wife, and upon the suggestions of his royal priests prayed to the Gods. Within a year, the queen gave birth to a son who was named Madansen. Considered a blessing of Lord Shiva and Parvati, the king constructed a temple in their honour.

DANTESHWARI TEMPLE, DANTEWADA – Dantewada, home to the presiding deity (Kuldevi) of Bastar, lies 87km South West of Jagdalpur, at the confluence of rivers Shankini and Dankini. Here, the Danteshwari shrine draws thousands each year, especially during Navratris and the days that lead up to Dussehra.

The 14th-century Chalukyan three-tiered temple is home to the black stone Goddess, who has a piercing gaze. It is recommended to come during the Bastar Dussehra when the main idol is temporarily shifted to Jagdalpur amidst much fanfare, led by the Bison Horn Marias in a long procession. The temple is one of the Shakti Peeths, popular for being the spot where Sati’s tooth has fallen.

LAXMAN TEMPLE, SIRPUR – A wondrous complex of ancient brick temples, Sirpur is the ideal destination for the spiritual and history enthusiasts alike. An erstwhile Buddhist site, parts of Sirpur are still getting excavated. Prominent areas include the Buddha Vihar and the 7th century LaxmanTemple, which is propped on a high platform. The exquisitely carved door frame is replete with figures of Seshasayi Vishnu along with his other incarnations. This temple is one among the most stellar examples of brick temples of ancient India.

BUDDHA MONASTERY, MAINPAT – Mainpat is one destination that offers respite from summers and has an unlikely religious composition of Tibetans. Main-pat is known for its Buddhist monastery that exudes a soothing vibe, fit for the drop in degrees as you climb from the plains to its hilltop address. A small, unassuming town, it is sure to charm the off-beat traveller.

PRAGYA GIRI, DONGARGARH – The 225 steps that lead to this 1000 feet hill is worth your while when you set your eyes on the enchanting gold statue of Buddha on top of the hill. Apart from some other small Buddhism themed shrines, stunning views of the towns below lie in store up here.

SHIVRINARAYAN – Christened after Shabri, the old lady who tasted berries and then fed them to Lord Ram in the epic Ramayana, the shrine holds special significance for Hindus. It is around here that the Lord is said to have spent 10 of the 14 years of exile from his Kingdom. Though extremely understated in architecture, the shrine has a mystical energy about it.

MALHAR – The town of Malhar is not known for only one temple, but a mix of Hindu and Jain temples give it the spiritual identity it deserves. Of these, Pataleshwar, Devri and Dindeshwari temples are the most famous but it’s the pre-10th century Jain temples also add to the vibrant spiritual-scape of the town.

DEVRANI JETHANI TEMPLE, TALA – Situated on the banks of the Maniyari River, Tala promises to open a world of intricate rock carvings in the duo, Devrani-Jethani Temples (sister in laws). Little remains of the 6th century constructed by the Vakataka Dynasty, but is sure to transport you into a bygone era. Look out for the Rudrashiva sculpture that was uneartherd from the Devrani Temple premises; this is the highlight here.

CHAMPARAN – The birthplace of Saint Vallabhacharya, reformer and founder of the Vallabha Sect, the main draw of the Champaran is a magnificent temple built in his honour. Another temple, called Champakeshwara Mahadeva (Shiva) is yet another reason for thousands to descend here during religious holidays.

NATURE AND FORESTS – Copiously green paddy fields, sinuous rivers skirting past silted banks, dense forests, the torrent of waterfalls and nature’s other vestiges are designed to mesmerise the traveller in Chhattisgarh. The thick canopies of towering teak, saal and bamboo trees along with thick undergrowth provide refuge to number of wild animals all through the state.

From the Barnawapara National Park in the north to Kanger Valley in the south, every rivulet and saal thicket, Chhattisgarh’s elegance unravels with every bend of the road. And while you’re wending your way from one sanctuary to another, you will spot see a jet-black bird with a smack of yellow plumage on its head peeping from posters and signboards; this is the Hill Myna, the designated state bird of Chhattisgarh. Only extreme providence grants you an actual rendezvous with the bird.

CHITRAKOTE WATERFALL – The sound of the gushing water precedes the jaw-droppingly beautiful vista of the Chitrakote waterfall, west of Jagdalpur. A frothy sheet of white plummets 95 feet, from a wide semi-circular mouth of a red tinged cliff, breaking the gentle flow of the Indravati River on top. An almost perpetual rainbow garlands the cascade in front of the waterfall.

Adding to the perfect scene are slim fishermen boats wobbling at the base; the scene harmonizes to form an unmissable photo opportunity. The legend goes that a large herd of deer once inhabited the verdant surroundings of Chitrakote. It is no wonder that the locals call it ‘Chitrakote Ghoomar’; in the local dialect, Halbi, ‘chi-tar’ is the name for a deer and ‘ghoomar’ is waterfall.

It is recommended to take slow steps from the rocky head of the falls. The thundering sound guides you towards the viewing pavilions in front, till you have to make a definitive stop to take in the sheer enormity of span of water dropping down. It is worth your while to walk all the way down to the base, to get enthralled by the entire view of the white crescent.

Adding to this stunning topography is a large stretch of sand and rock, mostly occupied by fishermen who spread nets in front of the falls. The hum of local life amplifies the charm of the waterfall. But the real brush of wonder still remains the enormous volume of water, in a playful harmony with the sun’s rays to crown itself with a rainbow.

TEERATHGARH – Wedged in the lush environs of the Kanger Valley National Park, the Tirathgarh falls provide an excellent view of the Kanger River tumbling down seven levels into a deep valley, over a flat rocky outcrop. The tiered waterfall against the red hued cliff sides look dramatic. It is easy to follow a staircase down to the first level and then find your way further down the natural rocky steps to the base, uncovering the beauty of one level below the other.

A popular local tourist spot, Teerathgarh is dotted with tourists, eager for a spray of water in their faces or some bold enough to stand right under the white frothy cascade. It is equally easy to extract yourself from the busier parts and find an isolated spot amongst the different levels. The second level has a small Shiva shrine in the middle of a rocky platform that evades the flow of water.