The Great Outdoors

Take the road less travelled and explore Switzerland’s raw beauty through its majestic mountains, dark canyons, thundering waterfalls and mystical moorlands – guaranteed to charm all aesthetes with its wild and rugged landscapes

It’s 11am and the gentle summer sun begins to warm my skin – like kisses from the divine. The late August air shimmers on the horizon and the occasional cool breeze wafts through the moorlands. Blooming fields of flowers have come and gone, and all that remains are a couple of loose clusters scattered across the park. The skies are a vibrant azure – a fine canvas for the almighty Alps that stood beneath it. And even though in late summer the Alps are just mostly bare, jagged rocks with the exception of its highest peaks, it is still breathtaking to be in such close proximity to the mountains.

Discover the Treasures Of Biodiversity

Known as Alp Flix, this high plateau moorland is located within regional national park (RNP) Parc Ela, the largest nature park in Switzerland. Fertilised and dry grass meadows are intermingled with mountain forest, high and flat moorland and mountain lakes to form a multifarious mosaic. In Alp Flix alone, 2,092 species of flora and fauna were discovered within a span of 24 hours back in 2000. “I have discovered about 500 species of flowers myself earlier this season,” says our local guide Victoria, an affable middle-aged lady of Romansh heritage. “Now that summer is ending soon, we are using the fields to gather hay and make farming tools. In the next two months, autumn magic happens and the leaves turn to a gold, red and rust colour. The view is simply beautiful, especially from high up the mountains.”

Unsurprisingly, Alp Flix is a tranquil country place, but it wasn’t always so. Until the 17th century, the Walser people had populated the area until they permanently abandoned the settlement to live in Sur. Now, all you can hear is the ringing of cowbells, the relaxing sound of gentle streams flowing down the Alps and the occasional shuffling of hiking boots against gravelled paths. With a relatively flat terrace set 2,000m above sea level, it is an appropriate area for hiking beginners, families or group of friends for a great alpine summer adventure. The circular hike is an ideal route for those pressed for time. It starts at the new parking area in Alp Flix and leads into the moorland plain, Alpine hamlets of Tgalucas and Cuorts, and eventually Flix lakes and Lai Neir before looping back.

The treasure trove of plant species to be discovered is varied and includes plants native to high altitudes, alpine flowers, berries and even mushrooms! “A lot of our visitors from Europe often come to pick large Porcini mushrooms during the summer,” Victoria shared with us. At the Savognin Visitor Center, visitors can even get locals to check if the mushrooms are safe for eating. Lake Blue (Lej Blue in Romanash) is a work of art in itself. As if the finest of mirrors, the expansive blue sky and neat rows of pine trees reflect a flawless image in the water. For 36 Francs, parents may purchase a discovery kit for their kids to explore the park like a researcher. The questionnaires allow kids to identify the flora and fauna in the park, test the pH of the lake or simply learn about the ecology of the park.

Piz Calderas and Piz D’err fringe the portrait and all that was missing from this unrivalled image are canapés and champagne for a relaxing picnic. If picnicking can’t be arranged, try Berghaus Piz Platta, a mountain house Unrated away from Lake Blue. It is as an Alp hut in summer seasons, offering an overnight roof for hikers and a place to rest and refuel for daytime visitors. Here, you can get an authentic Swiss meal starling with a refreshing cup of Apple Shorley, fresh apple juice mixed with carbonated water.

At The Home of the King Of the Alps

Divided by a series of mid-range Alps, almost parallel to Savognin on the west, is Casti-Wergenstein. This idyllic municipality transports one back into the past as the valleys and rustic buildings have remained untouched since the 1700s, or even earlier. From the bottom, rustic Swiss cottages dot the grassy hills covered in pines that stand straight up like spikes that flank the roads that wind around the mountain. Standing on the other (peak) end of the valley peeking down, rivers are streaming through deep valleys in the far distance next to a small but close knitted township nearby.

RNP Naturpark Beverin is the highlight of this region, and home to hundreds of mountain capricorns (also known as ibexes in Romansh) living on the cliffs around Piz Beverin. Together with 3,000 inhabitants, Naturpark Beverin staff strive to find solutions to work towards an economically and socially sustainable development in this region. This is the reason why nature and educational tours are highly recommended here.

Owner of a dairy company and local guide Michael Magnasch invited us into his alp dairy on Alp Curtginatsch, also the highest alp with cows of the canton Graubünden. One of the biggest alp dairies in the region, it has approximately 100 cows and they are milked daily. The 2,000L of milk collected every morning is used to produce cheese and other dairy products, shared our Belgium postman, who works as a Swiss cheese maker during the summer. Right out in front of the alp dairy is the viridescent pasture leading up to the crown of the rocky grey mountains. There is no need to conquer the mountain because from up here, it already feels like the summit of the world – peaceful and serene.

Though it is summer, temperatures run at a cool 19’C at its warmest. The unspoilt landscape is only viable on foot and with a bit of luck, ibexes and marmots can be spotted. Interestingly, ibexes were only re-introduced to Switzerland in 1956. They were once used as a food source until their numbers dwindled to nothing and locals had to steal some from the borders of Italy to breed them in St Gallen. Thankfully, this (illegal?) operation was a success and the alpine animals were returned to the wild in Naturpark Beverin and Italy.

Stafel Nurdein was built in 1925 for the sole purpose of milking cows. Up until the 1950s, the alp hut was fully functional but was abandoned thereafter. In recent years, there have been plans to convert this rundown cottage into an alp house. Because the moorland is a protected area of national importance, showers and sewage systems are prohibited. Thus, only a simple bed and breakfast will be made available at a cost of 30 Francs per night for communal sleeping quarters, and 60 Francs per night for a private room, which will be more suited for families and groups of friends. Isolated patches of nature, mostly evergreen meadows and rolling tussocks, surround the cottage.

There are lots of trekking routes available in this area to fit all levels of experience and fitness. Call it sheer luck but while on a trek, we managed to spot some alpine marmots popping out of their burrow, surveying the environment before scurrying back, and a herd of ibexes at the peak of the Alp.

Where to Stay

The halcyon days of the early 1900s can be re-lived at Hotel Capricorns (Swiss Lodge). Situated in Val Schons at an altitude of 1,489m, the hotel provides the best view over the Graubünden mountain range with an authentic and Arcadian touch. The building structure has remained as it has been since the 1930s and the only major change since is an inclusion of renewable energy in 2011. Indulge yourself within this Swiss hotel and enjoy a good rest within the wood-furnished and nostalgic-themed rooms. Regional dishes are prepared here and bicycle rentals are also available upon request.

Canyons and Mountain Passes

Life is full of ups and downs – especially so at Viamala, a route within the Naturpark Beverin in the heart of the Graubünden canton.

But here, the ups and downs are simply magical. A 20-minute car ride north of Casti-Wergenstein will bring you to the Viamala Gorge, an impressive natural monument with up to 300m-high rock faces, which, at their narrowest spot, are only a few metres apart. Carved through the massive cliffs thousands of years ago by glacial ice and the waters of the Rhine (Hinterhein), the Viamala Canyon still contains living evidence of its fascinating history to discover today.

As we walked along the Viamala Route 13 towards the famed Wildener Brücke (Wildemer Bridge), our eyes catch sight of wooden figures of Roman statues placed within gaps at the top of a cliff. That was the treacherous path used 2,000 years ago by the Romans to move from Italy to South Germany. The surroundings might be an exquisite sight but it was a wild and life-threatening journey for the travellers that once walked this path. Standing on the bridge, the first thing you’ll be able to spot is the zigzagging 359-step stairway leading down to the heart of the gorge from the visitor center. At the end of it, there is a rock gallery that showcases limestone, quartz and slate that make up these noble walls and rugged canyon.

The Viamala Gorge is just a pit stop along The Via Spluga, a classical cultural hiking route within the central Alps that, throughout the centuries, has linked the towns of Thusis and Chiavenna. The route offers the opportunity to appreciate a slice of genuine history, and allow hikers to know more about the mountain terrain alongside the local population whose life has been greatly influenced by generations of travellers making their way across the Alpine pass. It covers a distance of 65km and begins in Thusis (720m), all the way down south to Chiavenna (333m). There is also a shorted, leisurely 45-minute hike route from Viamala Gorge to Zillis, Rania.

Stephan Kaufmann, deputy director of Viamala Tourism, lead our group. Within the forest trail, the sky vanishes almost completely, leaving fragments of blue peeking through the canopy. Sparse pines cover each square foot of forest floor and the air reeks of rotting wood. It doesn’t take long before we arrive at Viamala pedestrian bridge that was brilliantly constructed in 1999. The bridge is made of steel and stone and although it looks unstable, is very strong. “You can jump on it without worries,” jokes Stephan. From where we are we can see the young river Rhine meandering through the forest.

Imagine a place on earth where you can safely drive at high altitudes with superb views of the valleys and polished glacial rocks. That very place is the San Bernadino Pass, one of the world’s ultimate driving or biking routes. This winding road takes one from Chur to Ticino over incredibly smooth roads, lined by Alpine trees and awe-inspiring scenic views. Several deserted castles and ancient churches along the way are testimony to the importance of this valley in the Middle Ages where it served as the main trading route between North and South Europe.

The Unfamiliar Green Oasis

Famous writer Max Frisch made Onsernone Valley his home back in 1964. He liked the idea of living within nature’s nest for its abundance of fresh air, calmness, and stillness, and the surroundings inspired his tale, ‘Main in the Holocene’. Amazingly, this piece of land that shares a topography similar to Singapore has managed to retain its unique characteristics for future generations to enjoy, an effort of the Locarnese National Park Project.

“Technically, you are now standing on two continents: Africa and Europe. Because of tectonic plate movements, a collision occurred with both continents that led to the fold up of a high mountain range, known as the Central Alps,” says Giovanni, a renowned meteorologist in Switzerland, as he pokes his hiking slicks into the ground while we climb up Salei. “Anticyclones form from air masses cool down to temperatures lower than their surroundings, which causes the air to contract slightly, making the air denser. Because of this, the humid air mass that comes from Italy makes the region moist and this results in dense rainforest.”

Salei is easily accessible, and a fun place to spend the day. From Vergeletto-Zott. a tiny four-seater cableway takes passengers up to Alp Salei for a panoramic view of the deep canyons and Amazon-like forest. The hike is easy and the trails are well paved with routes that smoothly ascend. Wild grass line the path and larch trees slope over the forest floor. It is as close I can call to a walk in the park with the exception that these park grounds are 2,000m above sea level and adjusting to the high altitude will take some time. We reach our final destination, Pond Salei, in no time at all. It lacks an ethereal sparkle under the sunlight but there is a deep sense of serenity and achievement when we see it.

Ancient villages where people still live and work today will be part of the future Locarnese National Park and these will serve as a one-stop cultural centre for visitors.

One fine example is the Farina Bóna Mills in Vergeletto, which produces Farina Bóna, a traditional corn flour made from Zea corn. The corn is first toasted then finely ground into powder and used to enhance flavours of food. A familiar smell of popcorn fills the air here, where a modern industrial coffee grinder is used to produce Farina Bóna. It is highly likely that Ilario Garbani, the owner of the mill, is the only one left in the world to produce this corn flour. Ilario started his mill out of a school project that soon turned into a business opportunity. But instead of focusing on making a profit out of an archaic tradition, Ilario uses the mill to educate visitors and lays the foundation of how Farina Bóna has played an integral part of Onsernone’s history.

Where to Stay

Built in 1780, Palazzo Gamboni is set in a bucolic location that overlooks Onsernone Valley. The charming country house was bought by the citizens’ community of Comologno and converted into a small hotel for travellers in 1996. The charming house has its original exterior façade and its interior is filled with antique furniture and contains details that reflect the history of the building. There are two wings to the hotel: one has modernly furnished rooms, while the other wings’ rooms follow authentic traditions. Book rooms in the latter for a bona fide experience.

Living La Dolce Vita

2,300 hours of sunshine per year and a church established after an appearance of the Virgin Mary – this is Locarno town within Canton Ticino, the warmest region in Switzerland. The urban landscape of cars filling up the streets as peak hour approached, people milling about on the pavements and an orderly chaos in the train station is vastly different from the still and quiet nature we’ve had the pleasure of experiencing the past week. Locarno is the prime example of Ticino, with its palm trees lining the roads accompanied by an Alpine hinterland and a plethora of buildings, both ancient and modern.

Madonna del Sasso, the pilgrimage church, is the most noticeable landmark of Locarno, as it seems to float about the town when viewed from a distance. The church was consecrated in 1487 on the spot where the Virgin Mary was said to have appeared to Brother Bartolomeo da Ivrea from the San Francesco monastery. It remains one of the most important religious and historical sites in the canton of Ticino and many locals choose to walk up from the city centre instead of opting for the funicular. Restoration took place in 2012 but statues have been replaced with new ones. From the corridors of the chapel, we have a stunning bird’s eye view of the city, lake and mountain range. I may be back in the city but I feel at peace in the chapel adorned with beautiful frescoes.

Before the 1950s, Cardada and Cimetta were destinations for winter sport enthusiasts, who ascended the mountain on foot while carrying their skis. Then, between 1951 and 1965, ski lifts were built to entice more skiers onto the slopes. Together with the cableway that began in December 1953, tourism began to flourish with the help of restaurant and cabin openings in the vicinity. Since then, the cableway has been renovated extensively to meet the needs of affluent visitors and the latest one is a panoramic teardrop shaped cableway. Nowadays, the mountains remain a simple but popular getaway to nature throughout the whole year.

Cardada is distinguished for its magnificent viewpoints but in summer seasons, it is also great for camping and children activities. Cimetta, on the other hand, showcases Lake Maggiore Basin from the scenic promontory and the geological observatory on a clear day. In winter, the area is a desirable skiing destination for locals due to its close accessibility. It’s also popular with those who trek, bike and even paraglide.

Where to Stay

A short drive away from Locarno is Ascona, the lowest lying town in Switzerland. Its mild climate, old town, lake promenade and Latin-ambient street cafes are just some of the reasons why it is so well received. Hotel Ascovilla is a four-star accommodation that comes complete with five-star hospitality services. The hotel resembles a bungalow and its hospitality makes it seem like you’re staying over at a friend’s place than a cold and rigid hotel. Apart from its homeliness and modern contemporary designs, the hotel includes facilities like a heated outdoor pool and complimentary use of bicycles for easy exploration of Ascona; the lake is just a five-minute bike ride away. Don’t forget to pack bathing suits for the summer!