La Palma, Spain

The Canaries aren’t all about beaches, you know – let’s explore wild volcano trails, starry skies and a colourful capital on the lush island of La Palma

Sat in a cobbled square, shaded by a scarlet-blossomed flamboyant (Delonix regia) tree, an old man quietly hand-rolled cigars as soulful notes from a busking guitarist threaded the balmy air. Around the corner, the sound of Spanish chatter emerged from a cocktail bar in a 300-year-old merchant’s house. I settled at a sidewalktable and sipped a mojito, gazing past locals promenading along the seawall to the turquoise ocean.

Havana? No – Santa Cruz, enchanting capital of little La Palma. The north-western most Canary Island is part of Spain, sure, but its soul is more complex. The original inhabitants, called Guanches by the invading Spaniards but known to themselves as Benahoarites, left their mark in petroglyphs, cave burials and the taste of toasted gofio (a flour made from roasted grains). Centuries later, waves of emigrants, fleeing hard times on La Palma, settled in Cuba and Venezuela, forging Caribbean ties that remain palpable in the island’s cuisine, rum, tobacco-growing and easy pace of life.

While the old mansions and whitewashed Renaissance churches of Santa Cruz might be all that cruise-ship passengers see on a fleeting visit, there’s much more to La Palma. From black-sand beaches in the west to the stark lava fields and cones of the far south, and the vast Caldera de Taburiente dominating the island’s centre, its volcanic past has created a rugged landscape, far more verdant than other islands in the Canaries.

La Palma is famed not just for its tobacco crops but also malvasia vines producing fine whites (formerly known as malmsey), reputedly favoured by Shakespeare. That’s not the only taste sensation to seek out; there’s fabulous fish and seafood, juicy figs and bananas, terrific goats’ cheeses and pan-Canarian favourite papas arrugadas (‘wrinkly potatoes’), here served with piquant mojo Palmero (hot chilli-and-garlic sauce).

Don’t worry about the calories. La Palma is laced with some 1,000km of well-waymarked and signposted footpaths, offering opportunities for burning off feasts on hilly hikes-this is, they say, the world’s steepest island. Trails mount volcanic craters, dense forests of Canarian pines and lush rainforested gorges. The central south was hit by forest fires in August, and a few trails remain closed to allow regeneration and path restoration, but most of the island is again open for business.

Despite the wonderful variety in such a compact package – nowhere’s more than an hour’s drive away – foot traffic remains fairly sparse. It’s popular with German and Spanish visitors but, for the most part, Brits are still to discover the joys of hiking on La Palma. Not for long: direct flights from London launched in October, making this an ideal short-break winter-sun destination. Take a stroll on its terrific trails and you’ll quickly discover why the Spanish call it La Isla Bonita: ‘The Pretty Island’.

Here’s the Plan …

Essential Info

When to go: Year round, though spring and autumn are pleasant. Carnival (24-28 February 2017) is lively, particularly the Fiesta de los Indianos on Carnival Monday. Almond trees blossom January to February.

Getting around: Transportes Insular La Palma buses serve much of the island – route 500 links the airport with Santa Cruz hourly; taxis are also a good option. Hiring a car offers most flexibility; local company CICAR is recommended.

Where to Stay: Hotel San Telmo is a friendly place in old Santa Cruz. Sister lodging Hotel Benahoare in Los Llanos is another option. Parador de La Palma is a grand faux-historic hotel with fabulous gardens and sea views.

Where to Eat: Santa Cruz has fine options. La Lonja serves classic dishes in a quaint courtyard. Enriclai is a tiny, quirky restaurant near La Recova market.

Day One: Explore Old Santa Cruz

Start in the heart of the old town: Plaza España, dominated by the 16th-century Ayuntamiento (town hall) and black-lava tower of Iglesia de el Salvador. The latter’s interior boasts bling altar decorations and a carved mudéjar-style ceiling.

Nip into the El Café de Don Manuel courtyard for the best barraquito in town – coffee with cinnamon, lemon, condensed milk and Licor 43. Next, head north-east along Calle O’Daly to Plaza de Vandale, and stalls laden with hand-rolled cigars and African crafts, then continue to Los Balcones, a row of colourful merchants’ houses – this style was exported to Havana.

In nearby Plaza de la Alameda, a replica of Christopher Columbus’ ship Santa Maria houses a maritime museum. Grab an arepa (stuffed corn cake) at El Encuentro café, then duck into the cloisters of the Museo Insular, a former convent that shows some fine works by local artists.

More walking? Tackle the 7.5 km loop north-west of town, along the Ruta de los Molinos (Watermills Trail) to the ornate Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves and its fine virgin statue. Finish at Los Balcones, sipping mojitos at Cuban-style Cuarto de Tula.

Day Two: Into the Volcano

La Palma’s centrepiece is its colossal, 8km-wide Caldera de Taburiente, created by millennia of erosion on a vast volcanic cone. Rise early to drive or bus across the island to Los Llanos de Aridane and the carpark at Los Hoyas. From there, shuttle taxis ply the road up to the Mirador de los Brecitos, which is the start of the island’s most spectacular walk – a not-overly-demanding 14km.

Descend gently along a winding path through Canarian pine forest, peeling off to admire Benahoarite petroglyphs and peer up at the jagged crater rim above, watching for choughs wheeling overhead. Learn more about the crater’s natural history at the Playa de Taburiente visitor centre, then plunge into the Barranco de las Angustias (Ravine of Anguish), beneath the phallic rock outcrop of Idafe, worshipped by the ancient Benahoarites. Detour to the red, green and yellow Cascada de Colores (Waterfall of Colours), then return to the carpark and Los Llanos.

Discover more about the island’s early cave dwellers at the fascinating Museo Arqueologico Benahoarita in Los Llanos, and wander the town’s old centre, enjoying al-fresco dining at Tasca La Fuente.

Day Three: Reach for the Stars

Clear skies and minimal light pollution create ideal conditions for stargazing – La Palma was UNESCO’s original Starlight Reserve. At its observatory, perched at the island’s highest point (2,426m Roque de los Muchachos), arrays including the world’s largest single-aperture optical telescope plough the skies. Get up early for a morning guided tour and fine views.

It’s all downhill from here – literally. Drive east along the stunning coast for a cooling dip in the lush natural pools at Charco Azul. Then, if you still have energy to burn, take a hike through the lush greenery of Los Tiles Biosphere Reserve, just inland past Los Sauces.

Discover how volcanic soil yields the best malvasia grapes with a tasting at one of the island’s top bodegas.

If time permits, shoot far south to Fuencaliente, home to several excellent wineries as well as the mighty Volcán San Antonio (don’t worry: it last erupted in 1677).

Round off your stellar short break with an evening’s stargazing tour with Ad Astra, to be dazzled by constellations, planets and the shimmering sweep of the Milky Way galaxy.