Mini Guide – Budget Mauritius

The priciest spots on this dream island are by its sapphire waters and white-sand beaches, but this means the real Mauritius of hot curry, fishing villages and hiking trails is going cheap

Food

Domaine

When travellers ask where to go in Grand Baie to savour some Mauritian home cooking, locals invariably say Domaine. Prices are low and the best dishes are the local specialities, such as ourite au safran (octopus cooked in ginger, garlic and turmeric) and chilli lamb.

Palais de Barbizon

In the tiny hamlet of Chamarel, Barbizon may not look much but it’s a fabulous place. Marie-Ange helms the kitchen, whipping up traditional flavours from her family’s cookbook while Rico L’lntelligent entertains at the tables. There’s no menu; instead, Rico offers a feast of rum punch, rice, veggies, and fish or chicken for just £10. It’s the best money you’ll spend.

Port Louis Central Market

Port Louis’ rightly famous Central Market is a good place to get a feel for Mauritian life. Most authentic are the fruit and vegetable sections. Grab a breakfast of French pastries or spicy dhal puri, which you can eat standing alongside locals who’ve paused for a bite on their way to work, before exploring the ornate Victorian halls.

Activities

Hiking the Black River Gorges

A wild expanse of hills, trees and waterfalls, this national park is the last stand for Mauritian forests and many native species, such as the Mauritius kestrel, the echo parakeet and the pink pigeon -which are all endangered.

Sailing & Snorkelling

In Mauritius’s southeast corner, the town of Mahébourg anchors a series of islands, including Île aux Aigrettes, popular for boat trips and snorkelling excursions. Local legend Jean-Claude Farla is a six-time national swimming champion who also competed in the Indian Ocean Games. He is the only person to offer sailing trips on a traditional 22ft pirogue.

Garden Touring

After Kew, the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden at Pamplemousses is one of the world’s best. The centre piece of the gardens is a pond filled with giant Victoria amazonica water lilies, and there’s an astonishing abundance of palms and variety of birdlife. Labelling of the plants is a work in progress, so hire one of the knowledgeable guides who wait just inside the entrance to show you around.

Sights

Natural History Museum & Institute

The main attraction here is the reconstruction of a dodo, which was native to Mauritius. Scottish scientists assembled the bird in the 19th century, using the only complete dodo skeleton found. There’s also a collection of stuffed endemic birds, including the red rail and solitaire, also extinct.

Père Laval’s Shrine

The shrine of Catholic priest and missionary Père Jacques-Désiré Laval is something of a Lourdes of the Indian Ocean. The Frenchman is credited with converting 67,000 people to Christianity during his 23years in Mauritius. Notice the plaster effigy of the priest on top of the tomb – it’s been rubbed smooth by miracle-seeking pilgrims. Services are held at 1pm and 5pm on Fridays.

Belle Mare Beach

Mauritius’s wild east coast is where you’ll find some of the best white sand and azure ocean on the island: north of Trou d’Eau Douce as far as Pointe de Flacq, the six-mile-long beach of Belle Mare is home to an impregnable string of luxury resorts but also a few stretches of public beach for budget day-trippers, including those you’ll find at around three miles and five miles north of Trou d’Eau Douce.

Mauritius Essentials

Transport

There are no special airport buses, but regular buses between Port Louis (the capital) and Mahebourg call at the airport; the stop is roughly 300m from the terminal buildings, near the large roundabout. Anyone on a budget will fare well using the island’s network of bus routes. Bus travel is cheap and fun; stick to express buses wherever possible, as standard buses seem to stop every few metres and can take twice as long.

Where to Stay

Staying at Chez Henri feels like a trip to the country to visit your long-lost aunt and uncle. The pretty rooms each have a small kitchen. Don’t miss the dinners served on the patio.

Sous le Badamier is a wonderful guesthouse and a real find near Grand Baie. Rooms are painted in soothing tones and there’s a warm minimalism that feels stylish yet homely.

The charming Les Lataniers Bleus is spread over three guesthouses by the beach. Dinner on the veranda is a great way to learn about island life from the hostess.

The Know-How

Keeping Costs Down

– The most expensive time to travel is high season (Nov-Apr), however this is also the most humid time on the island and cyclones can hit Jan-Apr: low season is cheaper and cooler.

– If your accommodation is based on a half-board regime, eat lunch outside the hotel.

– Rent a car from a local (rather than international) company – their rates are usually cheaper.

– For upmarket hotels, try to book through a travel agency, or else you’ll pay full rack rates.

– Hiking in Black River Gorges National Park is tricky without a private vehicle. To keep costs down, your best option is to get a taxi to drop you off at a trailhead and then pick up a bus at the lower end of the park; the coast road is well served by local buses.

– For excursions, try to organise a group – quoted costs are usually for the vehicle or boat.