The Guide To Enjoying Tokyo On A Budget

Eating and drinking

YANAKA GINZA – This cluttered cluster of street stalls in the villagey Yanaka district is vintage mid-20th-century Tokyo. There’s a variety of cheap takeaway eats on offer, from yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) to menchi katsu (minced beef croquettes). Settle yourself on a milk crate with the locals and wash it all down with a beer.

SUSHI-NO-MIDORI – There’s usually a long line at the Shibuya branch of this chain, but don’t let the wait put you off; service is quick and the generous sushi sets are good value. The 12-piece sushi lunch special is ideal fortrying a bit of everything. From inside Shibuya Station (but outside the ticket gates) look for signs to the Mark City complex.

Sights

SHIBUYA CROSSING – This is the Tokyo of the movies: the frenetic pace, the mind-boggling crowds, the twinkling neon lights and the giant video screens beaming larger-than-life celebrities over the streets. At the famous scramble crossing outside Shibuya Station, all of this comes together every time the lights change. It’s an awesome sight and a photo opportunity, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings.

MEIJI-JINGU – This Shinto shrine, Tokyo’s largest and most famous, feels a world away from the city. Located within 70 hectares of forested grounds, it’s reached via a long path marked by towering gates. Meiji-jingu is a place of rituals: every day at 8am and 2pm a priest strikes a large drum as part of an offering to the deities enshrined here. To perform your own, drop a five-yen coin into the offering box, bow twice, clap your hands twice, make a wish, then bow again.

TSUKIJI FISH MARKET – The world’s largest fish market offers an unbeatable insight into the Japanese passion for seafood, from mountains of octopus to pallets of giant bluefin tuna. As with most wholesale markets, it’s at its busiest early in the morning, and the 120 tourist passes to watch the famous 5am tuna auction go quickly. Rules for visitors change from time to time, so check the website for current.

Culture

ONSEN – Japan’s beloved onsen (hot spring baths) exist even in the capital, and have long offered an essential escape. In the historic, working-class Asakusa district, Jakotsu-yu shimmers with serene Mt Fuji artwork. Once you’ve cooked in the indoor bath, you ‘re ready for the lovely, lantern-lit outdoor bath.

ROPPONGI – One of Tokyo’s most impressive public spaces, the Roppongi Hills development is dotted with open-air art such as Louise Bourgeois’ giant metal spider Maman, and sculptural benches along Keyakizaka-dori. If you have yen to spend, choose from a trio of world-class art museums -the National Art Center Tokyo, the Suntory Museum of Art or the Mori Art Museum.

KABUKI – Highly nuanced and intensely visual, Japan’s iconic performing arts form blossomed during the 18th century, and an afternoon at the theatre has been a popular pastime ever since. Ifyou’reon a tight schedule, or budget, you can opt for a hitomakumi ticket for just one act. Rent a headset (from £3) for blow-by-blow explanations of the action in English.

TRANSPORT – ANA, BA and Japan Airtines fly direct to Tokyo from London (from £700; ana.co.jp). Non-direct flights with the likes of Lufthansa and Qatar Airways start at £480. Narita Airport is 36 miles east of Tokyo: the Narita Express (from £17) and Keisei Skyliner (£14) trains connect it to the city. The smaller Haneda Airport is much closer to the city centre. Some flights arrive in the middle of the night when a pricey taxi is your only option. Otherwise, take the Tokyo Monorail or Keikyu Line. Public transport is split between different companies, but a pre-paid Suica card can be used for almost all trains and buses.

WHERE TO STAY

Sawanoya Ryokan in quiet Yanaka has friendly staff and all the hospitality you would expect of a ryokan (traditional inn). You can rent bikes here to explore the area.

Atop a slope in a residential neighbourhood dose to the campus of the University of Tokyo, the venerable Homeikan is a beautifully crafted wooden ryokan with two adjacent wings and a third situated five minutes’ walk away.

One of the city’s few boutique hotels, the Shibuya Granbell Hotel is just moments from the heart of Shibuya, but very quiet for its central location.