Rome Confessions – The Tastiest Unforgettable Journey

The clock has just struck 12 on a beautiful late spring day. I am walking through the narrow cobbled streets of II Ghetto, the historic Hebrew neighbourhood in Rome. When I arrive at Piperno, one of the capital’s longest-running restaurants, the doors are still closed. A well-dressed gentleman is already waiting there. “It will open in a few minutes,” he tells me in a reassuring tone, smiling politely. “I’ve been a regular here for about four decades. There are not many places like this one – have you tried their artichokes?”

This is the reason for my visit here. Piperno is rightly considered the ‘grandfather’ of all artichoke restaurants in Rome. The owner, Pier Paolo Boni, has something truly delicious in store for me: a super-traditional menu starting with carciofi alla giudia (crisp and crunchy, deep-fried, Jewish-style artichokes), followed by carciofi alla romana – a lighter, Roman-style version slowly stewed with wild mint, parsley and garlic – and vignarola, a spring stew of artichokes, peas and broad beans.

GORGEOUS GIRL – The carciofo has been a staple of Roman diets since the days of the Ancients. According to Greek mythology, it all started with Zeus falling in love with yet another gorgeous girl, Cynara. Needless to say, he instantly seduced her and turned her into a goddess, bringing her to Mount Olympus. The young lady, however, soon felt homesick and left to visit her mother.

The king of the gods was furious and turned her into an artichoke. The name for the artichoke – cynara cardunculus – comes from this wretched girl. Funnily enough, this harmless vegetable has often been related to sudden fits of temper; a few centuries later, hot-blooded artist Caravaggio famously attacked a waiter over a plate of artichokes, enraged that he had challenged him to smell the difference between those fried in olive oil and those cooked in butter.

Just like many of today’s most beloved ingredients, the popularity of artichokes came out of necessity. Simply put, they were available and people made the most of them, especially in times of need. Rome’s Jewish community is a good example in this respect. Confined to the very restricted (and prone to flooding) riverside area of II Ghetto, they had limited food access except for those spiny thistles, which were plentiful and rather inexpensive. Not only that: Jews were restricted in their employment opportunities but they could work as food vendors and use artichokes. Originally prepared to celebrate the end of the Yom Kippur fast, they soon became an important component of Roman-Jewish cuisine.

The ghetto was finally abolished in the 19th century but the culinary tradition lives on. Artichoke-based dishes can be sampled pretty much anywhere in the area. Giggetto, by the ruins of the Roman temple of Porticus Octaviae, is another landmark restaurant not to be missed. Their artichokes are prepared pretty much in the same way as Piperno – and just like Piperno, they serve them all year round.

Those who prefer a more contemporary approach should head to the quiet residential neighbourhood of Monteverde, which is the trendiest food hub these days. Roberto Campitelli and Fabio Tenderini from Osteria di Monteverde were able to revisit the tradition with some pretty remarkable results. Roberto’s carciofo alla giudia sits on the plate like a blooming flower, floating on the most delicious cream of pecorino cheese and saffron. Artichokes are scattered everywhere in their menu, from a tasty combination with a pil-pil-style black cod to a mouthwatering sweet version on top of a tortino al cioccolato extra fondente with red berries.

RIGHT IN SEASON – The secret to sampling them at their very best is, of course, to try them when they are right in season. “That, of course, can vary from one year to the next, according to the weather, which is more and more unpredictable these days,” says Daniele Mari, from Azienda Agricola Mari, a well-known artichoke producer in the coastal town of Ladispoli. “The first ones start to show up on Roman tables at the end of January and are usually from Sardinia. The next ones are from the south of Italy – usually Puglia or Sicily. Finally, by the end of February or beginning of March, round globe Roman artichokes are harvested.”

Larger than the other varieties and with a colour that goes from green to purple, carciofo romanesco – aka mammola – comes mostly from the Roman coast, particularly from towns such as Fiumicino, Cerveteri and Ladispoli – the latter has hosted an artichoke fair in the spring for the past 50 years. It has Protected Geographical Indication status (or IGP), meaning that this particular variety is strictly tied to the area where historically it has been produced.

During peak artichoke season, Roman markets are a feast for the eyes: tidy piles of whole artichokes are usually given the best spot, right in front of the stalls, attracting customers and tourists. Campo dei Fiori is one of the easiest and most picturesque markets to visit, being in the centre of Rome, but it does attract a lot of tourists. If you don’t mind a bit of a walk you won’t be disappointed by the more authentic, covered market of Testaccio, or by the tiny market in Trastevere. Aside from the round romanesco, look out for the trimmed ones, which look like rosebuds.

And if you like the taste of what you had in restaurants, keep in mind that the traditional recipes are very easy to replicate. Just one little trick for your carciofy alla giudia: plunge them into bubbling hot olive oil until they look like sunburnt sunflowers, and keep in mind that the secret to getting the unique combination of crisp leaves and tender interiors comes from frying twice. Buon appetito!