Ischia – A Unique Mix Of History, Culture, Sand And Sea

Here on Ischia we turn our backs on the sea,” says Riccardo d’Ambra, the owner of II Focolare restaurant high atop the island. “Ischia has always lived off the land,” explains this exuberant bear of a man as he leads me through the labyrinth of caves that make up his wine cellar.

“We leave the fishing to the other islands.” He waves a hand towards a stunning view down his hilltop in the direction of what I assume is either little, lesser-known Procida, or glamorous, cosmopolitan Capri. All I can see is the deep, serene blue of the Med on this late spring morning. Like travellers for thousands of years, I am tempted to just gaze at the view from his rustic, eyrie-like restaurant but Papa Riccardo wants to talk rabbit. It’s the speciality of his restaurant, where the walls are lined with posters of the films made here – Cleopatra with Elizabeth Taylor being the most famous.

Even if you don’t eat rabbit, and I don’t, II Focolare has other excellent dishes, but more than that, its owner’s dedication to the land, to rabbits, mushrooms, fresh herbs and fine wine confirms that Ischia digs and cultivates, while Procida sails and fishes, and Capri? Well, Capri is like the glamorous aunt just a bit past her prime who can still make you feel that life is full of elegance and romance.

THE ISLAND OF THE EARTH – Those sublime views of the Mediterranean aside, and her rightful claim to have the only decent beaches, all that is best on Ischia is drawn from the earth. Ischia is the ‘green island’, as much for the green tufo rock on which it is built as for the fragrant pine forests that cover much of its surface. Time was, just 20 years ago, the road signs on Ischia were written in German because so many Germans visited the spas, hot springs, etc, that cover this volcanic island.

These days, luxury hotels like the Regina Isabella (where Liz Taylor stayed during that troubled filming) have been built around the thermal springs in pretty towns like Lacco Ameno with its elegant shops, cafes and distinctive mushroom-shaped Fungo stone. Also close to hot springs is Sant’ Angelo with its extraordinary promontory. Forio also has a dramatic rocky outcrop and was a favoured refuge for writers including WH Auden, Truman Capote and Alberto Moravia.

Earthy, green Ischia is home to La Mortella, the gardens that are considered the most beautiful in Italy. They were created by Lady Susana Walton, wife of the composer William Walton. La Mortella climbs up a steep hillside, has 3,000 rare plants, the largest water lily in the world and dizzying views down to that serene, unmoving, blue Tyrhennian Sea.