Where to Stay … On a Budget

Luxury can still be affordable! Let’s see a selection of delightful hotels and B&Bs across France that won’t break the bank

Manoir de Montecler, Maine-et-Loire (above)

If you are visiting castles in the Loire Valley and want to keep the château atmosphere going, then this charming little manor will suit the mood. Perched on a hill above the riverside village of Chènehutte-les-Tuffeaux, this B&B offers three stunning bedrooms, all elegantly decorated with period 18th-century furniture. They boast wonderful views of the terraced gardens and the River Loire, and both doubles have access to a sauna.

The owner, Brigitte Carpentier, runs a table d’hôtes (you need to book 48 hours in advance for dinner), with home-made dishes lovingly created from local and seasonal produce – including the cake served at breakfast. There is also a four-person gîte available to hire from early May to the end of September.

The Manoir de Montecler is an ideal base for exploring the Loire Valley and is just a 15-minute drive from the town of Saumur, home to the French military riding academy.

Les Orangeries, Vienne

If the pretty orange trees leaning over the 35-metre-long swimming pool, and the beautifully renovated stone house with its light green shutters, aren’t enticing enough, then the Gautiers’ passion for playing host should convince you to stay at Les Orangeries, which lies in a village between Poitiers and Limoges. The architect who renovated this 18th-century house is the owner himself, Jean-Philippe, who took inspiration from his grandfather’s orangery in Algeria: the result is a blend of historical charm and modern comforts.

What’s more, this was the first hotel in France to benefit from the European Ecolabel: everything used here – from shower gels to the jams served at breakfast – is organic and made using local produce. Scattered around the gardens and the house are good old-fashioned games, brought back to life by Jean-Philippe and Olivia, such as croquet, skittles, billiards and mahjong. With friendly service and award-winning food, Les Orangeries deserves to be far more than a stopover hotel between the ferry ports and the south.

Belle Vigneronne, Montagnac, Hérault

Belle Vigneronne is one of those places you could easily miss, if you don’t know about it. In fact, I drove right past, and that was when we were looking for the property. Keep your eyes peeled for a tall village house covered in a dark green vine that snakes its way up the wall, and a discreet sign reading Chambres d’hôtes: this B&B is one of those French gems you would be sorry to have overlooked.

Owners Jérôme and Philippe took on the project of renovating and redecorating this old winery; the result is a trendy, chic and welcoming place to stay, where period features blend tastefully with modern style. They encourage guests not to bring children, as this is a place for relaxation and calm.

With a friendly manner and a voice full of humour, Philippe showed us around the property, where every detail – from the stunningly colourful tiled floors, to the designer chairs in the dining room – is thought through. The building’s past life is celebrated through the names of the five bedrooms: Chardonnay, Merlot, the suite Picpoul…

I was given Sauvignon, an elegant room with a four-poster bed and a huge bathroom running the length of the adjoining building.

Surrounded by high walls covered in vines, the inner courtyard stays cool yet sunny throughout the day. Breakfast is served here, under the shade of red parasols, on blue-painted crockery. The owners offer a continental breakfast, including seasonal fruit (we enjoyed deliciously sweet melon), fresh croissants and cold meats. I was particularly partial to the interesting array of teas and infusions, a rarity in France.

There is a small triangular pool in the corner, perfect for cooling off after a day’s sightseeing. Our stay was too short to appreciate all that Belle Vigneronne has to offer but it is a place 1 would return to, as a base to explore the region, or simply to indulge in a little affordable luxury.

L’Enclos des Lauriers Roses, Gard

Little does one suspect that behind the small reception of this hotel in Cabrières lies a hamlet-within-a-village. Clustered around four swimming pools are several small Provencal cottage rooms, each with a slightly different decor – with names such as Mimosa and Amaryllis – yet all full of the warmth and colours of the South of France.

L’Enclos des Lauriers Roses is a privately run three-star hotel, where everyone in the Bargeton family lends a hand: husband and wife look after the restaurant, with Monsieur acting as sommelier, while their two sons maintain the buildings and gardens. You can enjoy delicious food in the dining room or alfresco, and head off for visits to Nunes, Avignon or the beaches, with the knowledge that the pools will be waiting for you to take a refreshing dip at the end of the day.

Le Clos de Tournes, Pas-de-Calais

Just a half-hour’s drive from the port of Calais, this charming B&B is set in a beautiful tree-lined park with a stream running through, offering the most tranquil of stays. You can choose from either the two self-contained gîtes, or the two chambres d’hôtes bedrooms set in the grand old farmhouse with a pale facade and big windows.

Breakfast is served in a pretty, typically French dining room with a long table and high chairs, and offers local specialities, including home-made jams using fruit from the orchard in the garden. The nearby village of Echinghen has two restaurants serving local dishes, while the attractions of Boulogne-sur- Mer are a 15-minute drive away.

Le Chatelard, Charente

Step back in time and live like a king at this neo-Gothic château in Passirac, lovingly maintained by owners Beatrice de Castelbajac – who inherited the castle – and Christopher Macann. The interiors have been decorated with period furniture, such as old, high-backed chairs, family portraits and ornamental fireplaces.

The chateau is primarily a B&B, but evening meals can be taken, provided you give enough notice. You’ll sleep between antique linen sheets and wake up to stunning views of the large grounds, which you can explore at your leisure. There are even a couple of bedrooms set in the tower.

Les Grands Vents, Charente-Maritime

Located in the quiet village of Chervettes, in the heart of Cognac country, this beautiful 18th-century farmhouse is owned by Virginie and Philippe. They offer two chambres d’hôtes, set in the main house but with a separate entrance from the garden, and direct access to the dining room and living room. There is also a spacious, self-contained gîte in the grounds that can sleep up to seven guests.

The main house is decorated in wonderful French rural style (Virginie has her own interiors boutique in town), and the bedrooms catch the morning and evening sun. Chambres d’hôtes guests take breakfast in the dining room, while everyone can make use of the pool in the lush garden. Les Grands Vents is a simple yet warm and welcoming option for those in need of peace and quiet.

Hôtel Casa Pairal, Collioure, Pyrénées-Orientales

Stepping into La Casa Pairal’s garden is like taking a breath of fresh air after being cooped up inside for too long. I had been travelling all day and was exhausted by the time I unceremoniously pulled into the private car park, hoisted the luggage, and trudged down the little shaded path towards the garden in the blistering heat. I emerged from the tree-lined path and was stopped in my tracks by the beauty of the place.

The pool was surrounded by a red-tiled terrace, shaded by heavy wisteria plants and dotted with deckchairs. Past here was the courtyard, with its enormous central magnolia tree, white garden furniture and fountain trickling quietly. Through the leaves, I distinguished the building itself: vanilla facade and big, elegant windows. Everything was harmonious, shining with warmth and light: I had to look around, expecting to hear a film-crew shouting “Aaand cut!”

The hotel is set in a beautiful 19th-century manor, where the period furniture, cool, patterned tiled floors and elegant staircase radiate charm and French style. It has 27 rooms, all air-conditioned, light and spacious.

Breakfast is a copious affair and consists of a buffet offering hot and cold options, with plenty of fresh fruit and juices. We enjoyed ours alfresco, under the cool leaves of the century- old magnolia tree, and listened to families plan their day out.

One of the best things about La Casa Pairal is its incredible location in the heart of Collioure, just 150 metres from the beach. There are plenty of restaurants and bars on the hotel’s doorstep, yet La Casa Pairal remains a quiet and peaceful retreat, ideal to while away the hours outside, and finally catch your breath.