The Best French Gastronomy at Home and Away – Bon Appétit!

Vegetarian Paris – After years of slim pickings, vegetarians now have an exciting choice of places to eat in the French capital

Brasserie Lola, 15th (above)

Located a little off the beaten tourist track, a 20-minute walk from the Eiffel Tower, Brasserie Lola provides an authentic local experience. It looks like a traditional brasserie, complete with a table-decked terrace, and even the food resembles classic French fare – but don’t be fooled. Here, everything is entirely vegan – and very good it is too.

I couldn’t resist its variation on that Parisian-café cliché, the croque-monsieur – normally out of bounds for veggies, let alone vegans – with wheat gluten and sweet potato replacing the ham and cheese. Accompanied by frites and salad, it was every bit as satisfying as I had hoped. Other staples include the club sandwich, tartine crostini and mushroom risotto.

The staff are friendly, the vibe is relaxed, and it really does feel like a taste of proper France. The good news for Lola fans is that the owners have opened a smaller sister restaurant, Brasserie 2ème Art, in Rue Montmartre.

While You’re There: Walk off the frites with a brisk stroll to the Eiffel Tower for the obligatory Instagram photos.

Gentle Gourmet Café, 12th arrondissement

Probably one of the best-known vegan restaurants in Paris, the Gentle Gourmet Café opened in 2012 following the success of the owners’ vegan B&B. Open from Wednesday to Sunday for lunch and dinner, this chic restaurant is renowned for its seasonal gourmet dishes, offering vegan cuisine that is the equal of, if not better than, classic meaty fare. It seems their efforts are paying off, with the city mayor’s office describing it as one of the “best addresses of the capital”.

We tucked into ‘Le Fameux‘ – a marinated and roasted portobello mushroom burger, garnished with a piquant chimichurri sauce, a slice of beef tomato, caramelised red onions and red oak tree leaf from Île-de-France, served with herbed polenta fries.

Look out, too, for the more informal Tuesday night music evenings. With a second restaurant promised imminently, things look set to get even more interesting.

While You’re There: Head to Place de la Bastille, once the site of the notorious prison that was famously stormed in the Revolution, or enjoy a relaxing stroll along the River Seine.

5 Lorette, 9th

Recommended by style bible Vogue no less (albeit more for the super-healthy credentials than the veggie ones), 5 Lorette has created quite a stir since opening at the start of this year. With its rows of exposed light-bulbs, pale wooden tables and feature ‘sea-blue’ wall, this cute little canteen has proved a hit with hip Parisians, but also with discerning foodies too.

Open for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday and dinner from Thursday to Saturday, it offers a delectable range of top-notch fare – think organic, gluten-free super-foods rustled up into a mouth-watering mix of mostly vegan plates of goodness.

To give just one example, we tried La Crudivore starring spring rolls, miso sauce, raw vegetables, dehydrated vegetable crisps, green salad and raw seaweed caviar.

Alongside, the range of juices is so good that you could probably live on those alone. Everything is beautifully presented on the 5 Lorette’s signature china with its pretty geometric patterns; style and substance.

While You’re There: Head around the corner to Rue des Martyrs, one of the city’s famous foodie spots, for everything from creative confitures and fine cheeses to top-quality chocolate.

Hank Vegan Burger, 3rd

The humble burger has enjoyed a renaissance of late and, when it comes to the veggie variety, Hank (standing for ‘Have A Nice Karma’) is among the best in Paris. With a fresh sesame bun, melted vegan cheese, tasty tomatoes, red onions, pickles and salad as standard, the moreish organic vegan steaks also come with a choice of four sauces – mustard with alfalfa; smoked barbecue with peppers; coriander with tortilla chips; or tomato and basil with black olives.

Hank has recently been extended, with a new upstairs floor designed in a charming, shabby-chic style, so you no longer have to wolf down your food in the tiny, draughty space by the main door. It looks as if the brand could be a burgeoning business empire – it opened a vegan pizza place this summer in nearby Rue des Gravilliers.

While You’re There: Head to the nearby Musée Picasso, devoted to the Spanish artist, who spent much of his life in Paris.

Soya Cantine Bio, 11th

Just a short walk from the trendy Canal Saint-Martin area, Soya is housed in a former workshop, and honours the original utilitarian design of the building with its lofty atelier-style windows, plain stone walls and even an old hoist still in evidence (be warned, there is no formal signage, so look for the street numbers).

While the decor is plain, the ‘fusion food’, as it is billed, is anything but, offering 100 per cent organic vegetarian and vegan options. From the carefully designed menu, I chose a flavour-packed lasagne, featuring the soy-based smoked tempeh, seasonal vegetables, cheese, and bechamel and tomato sauce, accompanied by a tasty side salad. Other equally appealing options include curry masala and a vegetable couscous dish. Soya is a little pricier than average, but worth every penny for the fantastic fare, authentic setting and friendly service.

While You’re There: Stroll along the Canal Saint-Martin, a 19th-century waterway that has undergone a period of gentrification and is now a prime people-watching spot.

Le Potager De Charlotte, 9th

Having been launched just over a year ago, Le Potager de Charlotte is still something of a hidden gem. However, as it opens just three evenings a week at the moment (Thursday to Saturday), you’ll still have to book early to get a table. Although they are open at lunchtime as well (Thursday to Sunday), the atmosphere is extra-special in the evening. With an intimate, fine-dining feel, the candlelit tables are beautifully presented, the service is excellent and the food is first-class: 100 per cent vegan, mostly organic fare, along with a range of wholesome smoothies and juices.

The menu is concise, with just three options for the main course, but my smoked tofu, with potato gnocchi, butternut squash and girolles, was the best I have tasted. I chose an organic Cotes du Rhone to accompany the meal and it’s hard to think of a better combination.

While You’re There: A short stroll north brings you to one of the most famous landmarks in Paris, the Sacré-Coeur Basilica, where there are panoramic views of the city.

Tien Hiang, 10th

Hidden away down a fairly nondescript side-street, this unassuming little place offers some of the best South-East Asian cuisine in Paris. The problem is, everyone else knows that too, so be prepared to queue, as they don’t take bookings.

On a warm, sunny Friday evening, we waited almost an hour for a table, but it was worth every minute.

The creative, almost entirely vegan menu is full of tantalising dishes – not least the ‘mock meat’ options, cooked from textured soya protein, so don’t be perturbed by the references to ‘beef, ‘chicken’ and ‘pork’. I opted for the ragout vegetal – a medley of vegetables packed into a rustic clay pot – and a bargain. The wait is long, the setting is functional and it’s not one for wine-lovers (they serve only soft drinks or Chinese and Thai beers), but Tien Hiang is still rightly regarded as one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Paris.

While You’re There: There are a couple of nice bars in this street, so pop in for a tipple afterwards, or head to the nearby Belleville neighbourhood to sample its lively nightlife.