Mini Guide: Paris for First-Timers

France’s City of Light has stolen visitors’ hearts for centuries; prepare to be bowled over by some of the world’s fines bistros, grandest gardens and most exquisite architecture

Food & Drink

Ladurée

One of the oldest patisseries in Paris, Ladurée has been around since 1862 and was the original creator of the lighter-than-air macaron (macaroon). Its tearoom is a top spot to indulge on the Champs-Élysées. Alternatively, pick up some pastries to go – from croissants to those trademark macarons, it’s all quite heavenly.

Le Miroir

It would be criminal to come to Paris and not spend time in pretty Montmartre, the hilly, bohemian area once notorious for its red light district, which fed the Moulin Rouge. It can be touristy, so it’s a welcome surprise to find Le Miroir – a modern bistro smack in the middle of it all. It serves delightful pates and rillettes, and other well-prepared French staples.

Frenchie

Tucked down an inconspicuous alley, this bijou bistro with stone walls and wooden tables is a classic. Frenchie is always packed and for good reason: excellent-value modern dishes prepared with just the right dose of unpretentious, creative flair. Book in advance, or try tapas across the street at no-bookings Frenchie Bar à Vins.

Art & Architecture

Eiffel Tower

No-one could imagine Paris today without it, but Gustave Eiffel only constructed this 320m-tall signature spire as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World Fair. Luckily, the Art Nouveau tower’s popularity assured its survival. Visitors can walk up to the second floor via 704 stairs. At the very top, there’s a champagne bar.

Cathédrale Notre Dame De Paris

This masterpiece of French Gothic architecture has been the focus of Catholic Paris for seven centuries and its interior accommodates 6,000 worshippers. Highlights include its rose windows, treasury, and bell towers, which can be climbed. From the North Tower, 400-odd steps spiral up to strange gargoyles and a spectacular view of Paris.

Centre Pompidou

The Pompidou’s modern art collection is Europe’s largest, but the museum is just as well known for its radical architecture. Architects Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers effectively designed the building inside out, with plumbing, pipes, air vents and electrical cables forming part of the facade. Up top there’s a roof ten-ace, while, outside, Place Igor Stravinsky is a fun place to linger.

Outdoors

The Seine

Nicknamed la ligne de vie de Paris (the lifeline of Paris), the Seine cuts through the city centre and its riverbanks are inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage list. On the Right Bank, east of the Hotel de Ville, walkways and cycleways whizz past the water. On the Left Bank, a 1  ½ -mile stretch from the Pont de I’Alma to the Musée d’Orsay is dotted with bars, restaurants and floating gardens.

Jardin Des Tuileries

Filled with fountains, ponds and sculptures, the formal 28-hectare Tuileries Garden, which begins just west of the jardin du Carrousel, was laid out in 1664 by André Le Nôtre, who also created the gardens at Vaux-le-Vicomte and Versailles. The Tuileries became the most fashionable spot in Paris for parading about in one’s finery. It’s still a wonderful place to lounge in a deckchair or regroup after a trip to the nearby Louvre.

Basilique Du Sacré-Coeur

Sacré-Coeur is a veritable experience: the view from the ten-ace is one of those perfect Paris postcards and it’s said you can see up to 20 miles on a clear day. Ivy-clad streets climb the hill of Montmartre to a funicular that glides up to the church and white domes (metro tickets can be used). Below, musicians perform on the steps and people picnic on the hillside park (6am-10.30pm).

Paris Essentials

Transport

Travel from the airports into the city is on RER commuter trains, the Roissybus or Orlybus express bus services, or the Beauvais shuttle bus. Eurostartrains connect St Pancras International with Paris Gare du Nord in under 2 ½ hours. Metro tickets and other passes are also available.

Where to Stay

Hôtel du Nord – Le Pari Vélo has a soft spot for bikes, which are available for guests to borrow and ride around town. The hotel itself is quaint and in a great spot near Place de la République.

There’s no forgetting what city you’re in at Sublim Eiffel, where Eiffel Tower motifs adorn the rooms and reception (along with metro-tunnel-shaped bedheads). There are glittering tower views and a hammam.

Home to Paris’s best swimming pool in the 1930s, Hotel Molitor was abandoned in 1989. The Art Deco complex has since been restored to fabulous effect. The pool is heated year-round and there’s a rooftop bar.

The Know-How

– An unforgettable intro to the city is a river cruise along the Seine, floating past landmarks including the Eiffel Tower, Louvre and Notre Dame.

– Prebook attractions online to avoid long ticket queues.

– Don’t cram too much into your schedule. Allow time to soak up the atmosphere of Paris’s neighbourhoods – as much a part of the experience as visiting major sights.

– Dress up rather than down for restaurants, clubs and bars; no jeans, shorts or trainers. Bring sturdy shoes – cobbled streets aren’t kind on high heels.

– Despite what you may have heard, never use ‘garçon’ (boy) to summon a waiter, rather ‘Monsieur’or ‘Madame’.

– A 15% service charge is usually included in your restaurant bill; no tip is required at bars and cafés.