Québec City, Canada

The point where Europe and North America collide, take in Québec City’s historic streets and eats, then explore the province beyond.

Before you arrive

Given that it’s perched on top of a cliff, surrounded by ancient fortified walls and guarded by a working citadel, it’s no surprise to learn that Québec City has a somewhat embattled history.

Though the First Nations Algonquin discovered it first, the British and French subsequently fought over ownership of this prime settlement on the St Lawrence River for centuries. Claimed as New France in 1608, then for the British in 1759, it was tugged back and forth before eventually Québec was declared a Canadian province in 1840.

Québec City is now distinctly more Gallic (96% of its population speak French as their first language) and war is the last thing on anyone’s mind – the locals are far too busy enjoying brunch and lattes in the many Parisian-style cafés that line the streets of the Old Town. There is one battle that you will still face though – hilly Québec City is nicknamed ‘the city of stairs’ for very good reason, so bring your comfiest footwear.

At the airport

Québec City Jean Lesage International Airport is about 16km south-west of the city centre. There are no direct flights to Québec City from the UK; the easiest route is to fly via Montréal, an easy connection. Total flight time from the UK is around 11 hours.

In Arrivals there is an information booth (help available 24 hours); there is also a currency exchange and several ATMs.

Getting into town

Taxis are readily available; the fixed rate for rides into the city centre is currently C$34.25. If you’re feeling flush limousines are also available for hire.

The Réseau du Transport de la Capitale (RTC) Bus 78 runs between the airport and Les Saules bus terminal, Monday- Friday.

Other ways to arrive

If you don’t fly into Québec City, the fastest and most convenient way to get there from Montréal is to take the train, with several departures daily.

The journey takes from just over three hours; one-way fares start at around C$34. Quebec City’s Gare du Palais train station is a ten- minute walk from the Old Town; there is a taxi rank outside.

Here’s the Plan …

Essential Info:

Population: 490,000

Language: Officially French/English bilingual, though French is more commonly spoken

Timezone: GMT-5 (Mar-Nov GMT-4)

International dialling code: +1

Highest viewpoint: The best views are from the grassy banks above Avenue Saint-Denis, from where you can see the Château Frontenac and the St Lawrence River.

Health issues: None, but you will need to wrap up warm in winter as it can get very cold.

Climate: Summers can be hot and humid (25°C and higher) while winters are cold and snowy (averaging around -5°C). Spring and autumn are more mild, though fairly short in comparison.

First Day’s Tour

Start by heading down to the Place du Marché du Vieux-Port to grab a coffee and croissant, then sample some of the local maple syrup and produce.

Next aim for the city walls. At Côte du Palais you can climb up onto the ramparts and walk along the top, heading south – the perfect way to compare the New Town architecture to your right with the Old Town down on your left.

When you reach the gate at St Louis, take a photo of the impressive Place de I’Assemblée Nationale then leave the walls and head back into the Old Town (don’t miss the cannonball stuck in the tree halfway down Rue St-Louis).

Pass the iconic Château Frontenac hotel before heading up the banks above Avenue Saint-Denis to take a photo. Next, take the many steps down to Marché-Champlain and enjoy lunch at Le Cochon Dingue. Meander among the shops before taking the train back up to the top of the cliff.

Spend the afternoon visiting the Notre Dame cathedral, browsing the galleries in the artisan-filled streets opposite and listening to the street musicians.

For dinner, sample some poutine (a Québécois classic – fancy chips, cheese and gravy) in Chez Aston, the place where it was allegedly invented. End the day by riding the commuter ferry to Levis to watch the sun set over Québec and the Château Frontenac light up against the darkening sky.

Where to Stay

Top end: Auberge Saint-Antoine in the Old Port is a beautiful retreat that’s part boutique hotel and part museum. Objects found when the original 17th-century building was renovated are presented throughout the hotel, which merges a period feel with modern touches.

Mid range: A striking mix of art deco and art nouveau, Hôtel Clarendon is a block away from the Château Frontenac and ideal for exploring the charms of the Old Town.

Budget: Located in the heart of the Old Town, the HI-Québec Hostel is a great budget option. There are dorms and private rooms.

Stay or Go

It’s certainly worth staying for a long weekend to explore both the Old Town and the newer parts of the city beyond the walls. Then you’ll want to head further afield.

A good start is Montmorency Falls, 12km north-east of the city. This vast cascade is actually higher than Niagara Falls, though not as wide. It’s also surrounded by beautiful park and woodland, and you can follow a trail to a bridge above the falls, where the

Montmorency River drops into the St Lawrence. You can then continue on to the cliffside staircase that winds down to the falls’ base; at the bottom, there’s a cable car to take you back up to the start.

A little further out is the Île d’Orléans, famous for its local produce including honey, maple syrup and wine; tours and tastings are available. Further east still lays the Charlevoix Valley, a great spot for hiking and whale watching.