The Great Camp – Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, Canada

With an eye for design, culinary daring and a clear adventurous streak, Clayoquot Wilderness Resort shows just how wild luxury can get

I’d been told bears could venture close to the tents so, hoping to spy one on its early morning wander, I rose before the sun, wrapped myself in blankets and nervously waited on my balcony turned hide. Having seen the damage one hirsute prowler had wreaked on the kitchen’s hardwood door, I knew an encounter could be interesting to say the least.

The dawning day was entrancing. Birdsong echoed from the green canopy above and eaglets called to soaring mothers. A nut-clutching chipmunk scurried past, huge eyes darting as it paused to protect its hoard. When hot drinks arrived at our tent-doors, human voices joined the gentle symphony as guests started their day, some heading to yoga, others simply lost in the setting. Nature was on the move but the bears remained elusive, presumably seeking berries high in the surrounding mountains. It could have been disappointing, but instead I felt profoundly content, my senses filled with the sights and sounds of this unspoilt area.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort on the west coast of Vancouver Island is indeed a pristine hideaway. Open from May to September and reached by seaplane from Vancouver or nearby Tofino, it’s a tranquil place where comfort, indulgence and adventure meet. Nature here is all- encompassing and the environment is conserved and celebrated in style. This luxury eco-safari destination embraces the aesthetics of the ‘great camps’ of old where travel was glamorous, no matter the surroundings, with ornate decorations accompanying their stylish owners into the wild. Through innovative attention to detail Clayoquot has recreated this ambience. Silver cutlery and crystal glasses festoon tables covered in white linen, velvet sofas are gently lit by kerosene lanterns and travel chests tell tales of romantic journeys past. Even the chic, light- filled lounge, found in a converted shipping container, shares these flourishes. Perched over the Bedwell River, it is adorned with vintage furnishings and historical artefacts gathered from a decommissioned tug that once towed the Queen Mary. From the vessel’s wheel to the replica ship’s flooring, the feel is nautical yet homely. All the while its full-length windows vie for attention as life plays through them like a film, the location the obvious star. Crystal water laps below, the blue hue changing as the day progresses, eagles swoop and mountains flit in and out of shrouding clouds – mist, sun, wind and ram proving equally beautiful.

This love of design and detailing continues in the prospector-style accommodation tents which boast impossibly soft bedding, fluffy duvets and cedar dressing tables that are ideal repositories for travel essentials. This is glamping on a whole new level. 16 luxury ensuite tents have king beds, daybeds and full bathrooms complete with outdoor showers where steam swirls into the overhanging forest, making your morning ritual all the more magical. Nine deluxe and family tents offer queen or single beds and daybeds, with adjacent private showers and toilets. All come with views across the water (be it creek or sound) and into the forest that envelops you on all sides.

Guests’ needs are met in a meticulous yet unfussy manner and when surrounded by such effortless grandeur it is easy to forget you’re actually in the wild. There’s no pretence though and active wear and a child-like sense of discovery are wholeheartedly encouraged. Whether on the three, four or seven night package, knowledgeable guides lead you on the plethora of activities offered, their enthusiasm contagious as they talk of flora and fauna and the history of local First Nations people. Here environmental and cultural sensitivity is incredibly important.

With the natural world ever-present – and so astoundingly stunning – I kept myself busy. Horse riding took me through new-growth forest (a mere 200 years old) and across rivers and gullies in the footsteps of fearless Ranger, one of the resident bear dogs (meant to chase away visiting bears, their antics instead make them a constant source of amusement). The cacophony of greenery was broken by splashes of purple foxgloves and yellow dandelions and, while my horse munched on the false lilies lining the old elk trail we rode along, I had time to admire the colourful palette.

Despite being a novice contending with tricky gusts and an innate lack of balance, I attempted paddle-boarding, the shouts of “awesome” from my guide spurring me on. With an inquisitive harbour seal swimming alongside I had all the encouragement needed to master the craft – or at least avoid any unscheduled swims.

It was on the Wild Side boat tour that I finally saw bears. Big, black and powerful, their huge paws tumbled rocks along the water’s-edge as they searched for unsuspecting crabs. I explored turquoise water and sandy beaches dotted with petrifying timbers while, in deeper waters, seals, sea otters and whales put on a show. Back on dry land I hiked, with a guide, under trees with witch’s-hair lichen draped over their limbs like tattered overcoats and hauled myself up steep inclines to reach the top of Penny Falls where, dipping my feet into the freezing water, I appreciated the magnificent, well-earned view. Later, recovering in the soothing bubbles of the outdoor spa, I pondered the resort’s tiny place within the immense vista … and when I could plan my hot stone massage.

Of course all this fresh air and activity creates hearty appetites which are amply met at the Clayoquot Cookhouse where guests eat with relish and conversation hums. Chef Justin Witcher and his team use imagination to turn local and foraged ingredients into flavoursome dishes. The staff obviously enjoy the freedom to be creative – even the dubiously- named gooseneck barnacles proving delicious. Here food is their show.

Chicken is massaged and truffle-poached, ‘cracky’ Dungeness crab is succulent in kombu garlic butter and spring lamb with purple potato fondant is crusted in bright pistachios.

Pastry-chef Merri Schwartz also forages for the ingredients that shape her sweet, seasonal menu with spruce tips, salmon berries and wild roses (infused into a custard) providing the fine nuances necessary to create perfect desserts. Gaining her foraging prowess though interest and experience, Schwartz draws on her artistic background to create granola, trail mix, power bars of a new persuasion, truffles and cakes that, together with the all-day candy bar, offer plenty of sustenance for sweet-­toothed adults and children alike.

Similarly, sommelier Tereza Roux adores wine and shares her knowledge generously, working closely with Witcher to ensure pairings showcase Canadian flavours and the team’s culinary skill. To her wine is “all about the dirt” and the emotions it produces. She uses words like “honour” when pouring and describes taste with phrasing suiting the environment – who knew a white could be “like fresh rain after a rockfall when rock-climbing”? Mealtimes at Clayoquot are gastronomic treats, the setting, flavours and destination working to make them truly memorable.

If you want to draw out the foody joys when you return from the wild, look to the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, which has partnered with Clayoquot to offer the Luxury Gone Wild package where guests can stay at both destinations. The hotel shares Clayoquot’s attention to detail and would no doubt have been a fine

Vancouver starting point for the great camp expeditions of yesteryear. And it remains an opulent treat to this day. Immediately welcoming, the sympathetically renovated 1920s decor pays homage to the hotel’s glamorous past. But modern flourishes abound – indeed, the hotel displays the world’s largest private collection of contemporary Canadian art. Patrick Hughes’ Internity in the lobby was a highlight, guests and the curious public pacing backwards and forwards to appreciate its 3D form.

Hawksworth Restaurant may be the hottest epicurean ticket in Vancouver (and home to the city’s best French toast), but the rooftop Reflections bar and restaurant is perfect for sipping specialty cocktails under a summer sky and watching the parade of style and creativity sharing the space. Bellinis here taste like summer in a glass, Green Thumb Margaritas have just the right amount of kick and birch syrup glazed house-smoked Kuterra salmon is delightfully appetising.

While luxury and flavour may also thrive in the city, it is the wild that provides solace. A few days after arriving you find yourself walking slower, breathing deeper and sleeping more soundly. Your senses are heightened and your psyche content. Mother Nature has given Clayoquot an amazing gift and the team has worked hard to imbue this exclusive, environmentally-responsible resort with real spirit. As you depart and the seaplane rises over Bedwell Sound the scale of this wilderness is apparent and the importance of protecting it becomes clear. Despite wanting to keep this little part of the world to myself, it’s only right that I spread the word.