Mission Chinese Food – What began as a pop-up by 32-year-old chef Danny Bowien at Lung Shan Restaurant is now a thriving permanent fixture (Lung Shan is still the name on the awning, which is why I walked past it three times). Popular dishes on the “Americanised Oriental” menu include addictive Chongqing chicken wings and Polynesian pork spare ribs; for a lighter meal, tty the spicy octopus and lamb’s tongue salad, a complex balance of fatty and spicy flavours, with dandelion greens, Chinese celery and cumin vinaigrette.
Park Tavern – With hefty beams on the ceiling, a warm, lively atmosphere, trendy crowd and hearty, fresh-from-the-market menu, this handsome spot in North Beach exemplifies San Francisco’s laid-back foodie style. Start with a bar snack or two (I liked the devilled eggs with smoked bacon and jalapeno) and a Washington Square cocktail, a deliciously acidic concoction of ginger and sparkling grape, before the main event: whole pan let noir served with black truffles, or a whopper of a pork chop paired with Parmesan risotto.
Craftsman & Wolves – There will always be Tartine, the Francophile bakery that has been the place to get one’s daily bread in the Mission for more than a decade. But for innovative riffs on patisserie classics (pain an cochon, passion-fruit sesame croissant) and sweet treats (Eclairs, lime tarts), head to chef William Werner’s new minimalist space around the corner, which has motivational quotes on the walls and plaid-shirted types at the tables. Order the Rebel Within, a savoury scone with a soft-cooked egg inside. Breakfast is rarely this exciting.
Benu – Good luck getting a reservation at Thomas Keller’s legendary French Laundry, over the Golden Gate Bridge in Napa. You have a much better chance at this haute SoMa spot, which has Keller disciple Corey Lee at the stove. It’s a serious-looking place with a minimalist Japanese aesthetic, and the food is both inventive and unbelievably tasty. ‘The only option is the tasting menu, which varies from 16 to 19 courses. Stand-outs among the dishes I tried were oily river trout in breadcrumbs and a mind-blowing chocolate, praline and caramel bomb with banana puree.
