GUREZ – The state government in recent years has been quietly opening up and developing some of the prettiest new areas in the Valley for tourism. For the adventure lover, chief amongst these jewels has been the twin valleys of Gurez and Talial, set in the remote areas of the Indo-Pak border in Bandipore District, which is fed by the beautiful Kishanganga River. This gorgeous stretch of land is sheltered by the inner folds of the Great Himalayas on the ancient caravan route to Gilgit in POK— an evocative reminder of the role it played in the ‘Great Game’ of one-upmanship between the British Empire and Tsarist Russia, to control the region during the days of the Raj. Today, the Line of Control (LoC) runs through the valley.
There’s a mountain here, which separates the twin valleys and commemorates the legend of Kashmiri poetess Habba Khatoon (Zoonie) who loved the Kashmiri king Yousuf Shah Chak, and spent time pining for her great love in these parts during his imprisonment by Mughal emperor Akbar. Visitors can stay at the neat tourist guesthouse in the principle township of Dawar, which served as the capital of Dardistan in earlier times. Today, it offers important historic and archaeological insights into the region. The best season is June-September when winter loosens its hold on this snowbound region. Accessed through the Rajdhan Pass, from where you get elusive glimpses of the Harmukh Peak, a good time to visit this frontier area is during the annual Gurez Festival, held in August. Permits can be collected from the Superintendent of Police/Deputy Director Tourism, Tourism Enforcement Counter, TRC Srinagar.
The two-day Gurez Festival captures the very essence of the many cultural delights of the Shina-speaking Dards, amongst Kashmir’s oldest tribal peoples, who were separated from their people in Astore, Gilgit and Chilas with the introduction of the LoC. In August, when the burgeoning crowds of visitors, locals and smattering of VIPS gather here, the weather is balmy despite a nip in the air. The festival is a compelling mix of folk dance and music jamborees punctuated by theatrical performances by local artistes. A modern day edge to the proceedings is provided by a slew of adventure sports activities such as rafting on the Kishanganga River, cycling, zorbing and trekking virginal trails with local guides to engage the adventure hungry. The Gurez Festival has proved to be an excellent platform to bring this remote region into the ambit of the state’s tourism agenda.
Gurezi cuisine, which can be enjoyed at the festival, is directed by seasonal offerings. Fresh vegetables are scarce during the s-month-long snowbound winters—so the community hoards up vegetables and grain for this hard period of fierce winds and punishing blizzards. Gurezi fare is hearty, nutritious and back to basics. Before rice was introduced, a cereal-like grain called ping was the staple base for meals as are Trumba ki roti and naanwai roti. Potatoes, lentils, rajma and turnips are kitchen staples as well. For non-veg visitors there are meat curries to die for. A delicious snack is kalari, a strong rich cheese made from sheep’s milk. A hot favourite is its pakora avatar, served with green chilli chutney; bread pakoras are available readily in market stalls. Butter tea (strong) is the beverage of choice everywhere at all times.
