Canyons and Mountain Passes

Life is full of ups and downs – especially so at Viamala, a route within the Naturpark Beverin in the heart of the Graubünden canton.

But here, the ups and downs are simply magical. A 20-minute car ride north of Casti-Wergenstein will bring you to the Viamala Gorge, an impressive natural monument with up to 300m-high rock faces, which, at their narrowest spot, are only a few metres apart. Carved through the massive cliffs thousands of years ago by glacial ice and the waters of the Rhine (Hinterhein), the Viamala Canyon still contains living evidence of its fascinating history to discover today.

As we walked along the Viamala Route 13 towards the famed Wildener Brücke (Wildemer Bridge), our eyes catch sight of wooden figures of Roman statues placed within gaps at the top of a cliff. That was the treacherous path used 2,000 years ago by the Romans to move from Italy to South Germany. The surroundings might be an exquisite sight but it was a wild and life-threatening journey for the travellers that once walked this path. Standing on the bridge, the first thing you’ll be able to spot is the zigzagging 359-step stairway leading down to the heart of the gorge from the visitor center. At the end of it, there is a rock gallery that showcases limestone, quartz and slate that make up these noble walls and rugged canyon.

The Viamala Gorge is just a pit stop along The Via Spluga, a classical cultural hiking route within the central Alps that, throughout the centuries, has linked the towns of Thusis and Chiavenna. The route offers the opportunity to appreciate a slice of genuine history, and allow hikers to know more about the mountain terrain alongside the local population whose life has been greatly influenced by generations of travellers making their way across the Alpine pass. It covers a distance of 65km and begins in Thusis (720m), all the way down south to Chiavenna (333m). There is also a shorted, leisurely 45-minute hike route from Viamala Gorge to Zillis, Rania.

Stephan Kaufmann, deputy director of Viamala Tourism, lead our group. Within the forest trail, the sky vanishes almost completely, leaving fragments of blue peeking through the canopy. Sparse pines cover each square foot of forest floor and the air reeks of rotting wood. It doesn’t take long before we arrive at Viamala pedestrian bridge that was brilliantly constructed in 1999. The bridge is made of steel and stone and although it looks unstable, is very strong. “You can jump on it without worries,” jokes Stephan. From where we are we can see the young river Rhine meandering through the forest.

Imagine a place on earth where you can safely drive at high altitudes with superb views of the valleys and polished glacial rocks. That very place is the San Bernadino Pass, one of the world’s ultimate driving or biking routes. This winding road takes one from Chur to Ticino over incredibly smooth roads, lined by Alpine trees and awe-inspiring scenic views. Several deserted castles and ancient churches along the way are testimony to the importance of this valley in the Middle Ages where it served as the main trading route between North and South Europe.