At The Home of the King Of the Alps

Divided by a series of mid-range Alps, almost parallel to Savognin on the west, is Casti-Wergenstein. This idyllic municipality transports one back into the past as the valleys and rustic buildings have remained untouched since the 1700s, or even earlier. From the bottom, rustic Swiss cottages dot the grassy hills covered in pines that stand straight up like spikes that flank the roads that wind around the mountain. Standing on the other (peak) end of the valley peeking down, rivers are streaming through deep valleys in the far distance next to a small but close knitted township nearby.

RNP Naturpark Beverin is the highlight of this region, and home to hundreds of mountain capricorns (also known as ibexes in Romansh) living on the cliffs around Piz Beverin. Together with 3,000 inhabitants, Naturpark Beverin staff strive to find solutions to work towards an economically and socially sustainable development in this region. This is the reason why nature and educational tours are highly recommended here.

Owner of a dairy company and local guide Michael Magnasch invited us into his alp dairy on Alp Curtginatsch, also the highest alp with cows of the canton Graubünden. One of the biggest alp dairies in the region, it has approximately 100 cows and they are milked daily. The 2,000L of milk collected every morning is used to produce cheese and other dairy products, shared our Belgium postman, who works as a Swiss cheese maker during the summer. Right out in front of the alp dairy is the viridescent pasture leading up to the crown of the rocky grey mountains. There is no need to conquer the mountain because from up here, it already feels like the summit of the world – peaceful and serene.

Though it is summer, temperatures run at a cool 19’C at its warmest. The unspoilt landscape is only viable on foot and with a bit of luck, ibexes and marmots can be spotted. Interestingly, ibexes were only re-introduced to Switzerland in 1956. They were once used as a food source until their numbers dwindled to nothing and locals had to steal some from the borders of Italy to breed them in St Gallen. Thankfully, this (illegal?) operation was a success and the alpine animals were returned to the wild in Naturpark Beverin and Italy.

Stafel Nurdein was built in 1925 for the sole purpose of milking cows. Up until the 1950s, the alp hut was fully functional but was abandoned thereafter. In recent years, there have been plans to convert this rundown cottage into an alp house. Because the moorland is a protected area of national importance, showers and sewage systems are prohibited. Thus, only a simple bed and breakfast will be made available at a cost of 30 Francs per night for communal sleeping quarters, and 60 Francs per night for a private room, which will be more suited for families and groups of friends. Isolated patches of nature, mostly evergreen meadows and rolling tussocks, surround the cottage.

There are lots of trekking routes available in this area to fit all levels of experience and fitness. Call it sheer luck but while on a trek, we managed to spot some alpine marmots popping out of their burrow, surveying the environment before scurrying back, and a herd of ibexes at the peak of the Alp.

Where to Stay

The halcyon days of the early 1900s can be re-lived at Hotel Capricorns (Swiss Lodge). Situated in Val Schons at an altitude of 1,489m, the hotel provides the best view over the Graubünden mountain range with an authentic and Arcadian touch. The building structure has remained as it has been since the 1930s and the only major change since is an inclusion of renewable energy in 2011. Indulge yourself within this Swiss hotel and enjoy a good rest within the wood-furnished and nostalgic-themed rooms. Regional dishes are prepared here and bicycle rentals are also available upon request.