Eat

Luini’s. Do not leave Milan without visiting Luini’s. In fact, make it a priority, as this bakery has been bashing out panzerotti – that’s doughy, fried mozzarella and tomato parcels – since 1888. Go early to avoid the queues and buy a bagful of the moreish, molten snacks – one will not be enough, and there are different varieties to try (salami, anchovy, even sweet chocolate versions). Eat them standing on the street or dine with the pigeons on the steps of the Duomo, which is 30 seconds away.

Trattoria Massuelli S.Marco. Think you know risotto? The gooey rice dish is famous throughout Italy, but in Milan it takes on a yellow tinge, thanks to one key ingredient: saffron. The origins of the rice staple aren’t set in stone, but it’s thought the saffron was added to give it a special golden hue for a wedding event. Try it yourself at Trattoria Massueli S. Marco on Viale Umbria, a fuss-free restaurant established in 1921. For real gold – a sliver of gold leaf on top, in fact – II Marchesino, in La Scala opera house, does a fancier version.

Gelato Corso Garibaldi 55. Good gelato isn’t hard to come by in Milan – and you’ll want to try it all, right? Well, make sure this small shop at number 55 Corso Garibaldi is on your list. It’s not the interiors that make it special – it’s just a counter chock-full of flavours and no sitting room – but you’ll want to eat your cone strolling the streets anyway. We went mad for the nuts, with pistachio, hazelnut and a generous scoop of a fresh batch of coconut. Deliciously creamy and delicately flavoured, it’s perfect in the city heat – or at any time of year for that matter.

Drink

Navigli. Ok, so recommending a whole district in Milan may seem a bit vague, but we’re going bar hopping. The streets of Navigli, southwest of the centre, are lined with canals and socialising Italians; this is tiny, lively bar territory. Try Viola Enoteca, which specialises in Italian wines; or for beer head to BQ, where you’ll find 100 artisan beers, plus another ten on tap and ten from the keg. Start in the early evening and grab a table for aperitivo – essentially drinks which come with snacks. Ours is an Aperol Spritz, or a hugo – prosecco with elderflower.

Four Seasons Milan. If plush carpets, padded arm chairs and guys in white suits are just your style, then settle in for a drink at the Four Seasons Milan. The luxe hotel started life as a convent in the 15th century, and nods to its rich history are still present – from renaissance columns to faded frescoes. Nowadays, the famous foyer bar is a place for plinky plonky piano tunes and some of the best martinis in the city. Great for a sophisticated nightcap if the bars of Navigli get a little bit too rowdy.

Taglio. You’ll need espressos to fuel your Milan sightseeing. Yes, espressos. No cappuccinos, and definitely no lattes. The rich shots of coffee are served in hundreds of bars about town, and cost just a euro. You’ll most likely be handed die tiny cup within 20 seconds by an old fella kitted out in a shirt and tie. Wander the backstreets and find your own place that’s likely to have been pulling espressos for decades, or for something a bit less traditional check out the cold-brew concoctions at Taglio.