Jata Shankar Cave In Pachmarhi

The ground is eerily cool and the air is still. Incense stick smoke rises in a long, thin stream. Going 50 steep steps underground, I enter the Jata Shankar cave in Pachmarhi. Inside a deep ravine, the sacred cave-shrine gets its name from a rock formation that resembles the matted hair of Shiva, and is believed to contain 108 naturally formed Shiva lingams.

As I go deeper into the cave, it gets colder. My head begins to feel heavy and I sense a strange, magnetic force pulling me forwards. My heart pounds and the walls begin to feel like they’re closing in on me. Brushing it off as claustrophobia and a lack of oxygen, I quickly pay my respects; seek the blessings of the priest and head out. Vijay, my driver, asks if I felt anything at the temple.

At my surprised confirmation, he nods. “Jata Shankar is known for its powers,” he explains. “One shouldn’t stay too long down there. You never know what can happen,” he trails off mysteriously, as we drive towards the picturesque, urban Pachmarhi I know.

With waterfalls, caves, gardens worthy of Enid Blyton picnics, and the forested ranges of the Satpura National Park, Pachmarhi offers the usual hill-station staples like sunset and picnic points. Head to Handi Khoh, Priyadarshini and Rajendragiri for stunning views of the hills, and the Pandav Caves—believed to have been one of the Pandavs’ hideouts—for a dose of ancient local mythology. Back in the present, the WelcomHeritage Golf View, a pretty, colonial- style hotel, is the perfect place for me to recover from my cave escapades. As I soak up the bright sunshine in perfectly manicured lawns and contemplate a pot of tea, the haunting feeling from the temple finally starts to fade into a distant, if not forgettable, dream.

Getting There: Fly to Bhopal with Jet Airways from Mumbai or New Delhi. Pachmarhi is a four-hour drive away.

Where To Stay: WelcomHeritage Golf View