HOTELS: Aria Hotel

The rooms at the glitzy five-star hotel showcase depictions of famous musicians, and the floors are dedicated to genres like jazz and opera. Doubles from US$334.

Brody House

A bohemian hideaway with 11 rooms in a beautifully crumbling apartment building that also hosts artists’ salons. Doubles from US$78.

Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace
This glorious Art Nouveau property just opened a posh brasserie called Kollazs. Doubles from US$446.


Csendes Tars

One of Budapest’s loveliest kertek (garden cafés) also runs a neighbouring general store selling artisanal honey, jams, and handicrafts. Small plates US$2-US$5.

Espresso Embassy A chic coffee shop designed by one of the young architects who worked on Budapest’s new metro line.

Fellini Romai Kulturbisztro This gypsy-caravan-themed beach bar on the Danube is an amazing place to end a summer evening with a froccs (wine spritzer).

Fioka Enjoy classics like chicken paprikash, goulash, and marrow bones at this sweet little restaurant on the leafy Buda side of the Danube. Entrées US$8-US$20.

Macesz Bistro Hungarian-Jewish cuisine, like pickled herring and latkes with duck breast, is extremely popular here. Entrées US$9-US$21.

Mazel Tov

A popular bar in the old Jewish district. You’ll find Tel Aviv’s beachy vibe on the casual patio, which serves Levantine comfort food like falafel and shakshuka. Entrées US$7-US$16.

Menza The restaurant’s name, meaning ‘canteen,’ isn’t the only nod to the city’s past. It reimagines classics like grilled duck liver. Entrées US$7-US$17.

Pesti Diszno This gastropub sits next to the Opera and offers a rib-sticking stew made from mangalica, a pig indigenous to Hungary. Entrées US$9-US$25.

Pinczi The pickled peppers and gamey local sausages are served on paper plates with giant pools of mustard at this scruffy butcher shop.

Szimpla Kert

The ‘ruin bar’ trend started here when a group began selling cheap beer in a decrepit heritage building. Now the place—filled with found furniture and Communist-era artifacts—is always packed.

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