SKIING – With 217 miles of slopes, ultramodern lifts and spirit-soaring views, skiing here is a treat, especially for more confident intermediates. For groomed slopes with big vistas, head to Corviglia, accessible by funicular from Dorf. There’s varied skiing at Corvatsch, above Silvaplana, including spectacular glacier descents and the gentle black run Hahnensee.
EATING – Chesa Veglia, a slate-roofed chalet, is St Moritz’s oldest restaurant, dating from 1658. Inside the softly lit, wooden-floored interior are two bars and three restaurants: Pizzeria Heuboden does decent wood-oven pizzas, while Patrizier Stuben offers regional specialities such as creamy barley soup and venison with egg noodles.
MUSEUM – Six miles from St Moritz, Sils-Maria is a chocolate-box village of pastel-painted chalets set against rugged, glacier-capped mountains. Nietzsche spent his summers from 1881 to 1888 here, writing the likes of Thus Spake Zarathustra. His chalet is now a museum, containing photos, memorabilia and letters.