At first glance, Titilaka’s neo-industrial entrance appears to have turned its back on new arrivals. But step into the airy lobby and it’s easy to why: the entire hotel is built to make the most out of South America’s highest, largest, most wondrously beautiful lake on the other side. Everyone comes to this corner of the world to visit Titicaca’s curious islands, but only guests at Titilaka get floor-to-ceiling views of the lake and its soaring dome of blue sky. And, as if this isn’t enough, there’s a wrap-around terrace with double beds and deck chairs from which to take it all in. The bright interiors are crafted by architect Jordi Puig, the owner Ignacio Masias and his sister Sandra Masias (also the team behind the smart Hotel Band the new Atemporalhotels in Lima).
Untainted sunlight streams in, warming the adobe brickwork, plush sofas, throws and rugs in bold Altiplano colours, and bespoke Pop-art pieces. During the day, a choice of 14 outings is offered as standard, ranging from rafting or exploring the archaeological site of Sillustani to taking a catamaran to Bolivia’s glorious, car-free Island of the Sun. On your return, indulge in a massage or kick back in your room – all 18 have lake views and heated floors, and most have big bathtubs. Start the evening with pisco-powered cocktails at sunset – a pit-fire is lit to tame the Andean chill – before a supper of New Peruvian dishes such as alpaca carpaccio, mountain trout ceviche and quinoa souffle. Before bed, make one final visit to the deck to see one of the best night skies on the planet.