Just because Noma, Copenhagen’s temple of new Nordic cuisine, is temporarily shutting its doors doesn’t mean you need to hold off on visiting this famously foodie city. Chef René Redzepi has inspired an army of Noma alumni to wage their own revolution: Christian Puglisi earned a Michelin star at his restaurant Relae, staking his reputation on a vegetable-heavy tasting menu (sample dish: celeriac, black olive and seaweed salad).
Meanwhile, Samuel Nutter and Victor Wägman take a brave, nose-to-tail approach at their two-story bistro Bror, serving lamb in four courses, beginning with a thinly sliced eye. Their menu also includes a starter of fried bull’s testicle. Matt Orlando – Noma’s first chef de cuisine – opened his thrilling Amass in 2013. At Taller, Karlos Ponte cooks his native Venezuelan cuisine with Nordic ingredients and techniques. Likewise, frustrated by the lack of good Mexican food in Copenhagen, Rosio Sanchez opened her own taco stand at the Torvehallerne market a few months later, importing dry corn for her tortillas directly from Oaxaca. And that’s just dinner. Here’s how to dive into the rest of this great Danish city – Mickey Rapkin.
Once a dodgy working-class stretch, Nørrebro has been reborn as a playground for bearded artisans and the backdrop to a perfectly curated afternoon. Start with lunch at Manfreds – there’s a disco ball in the wine cellar, but the beef tartare is where the party’s at. Then caffeinate at the Coffee Collective (an award-winning roaster) before browsing Proper Attire Requested, a secondhand men’s shop threads. Stop in for a spell at Crate Beer & Vinyl – which offers exactly that.
The Cocktail Bar.
Duck and Cover is a place bartenders come to drink. Mix master Kasper Riewe Henriksen left the venerable Ruby in 2012 to open this dark-wood bar where he’s constantly tinkering with the menu. Here’s a tip: Drink whatever gin cocktail this cat puts in front of you.
In Copenhagen, even dudes riding bicycles look cool. Perhaps that’s because they shop at Han Kjøbenhavn, your first stop for monochromatic swaters, drop-crotch pants in hybrid fabrics and suave overcoats. The sunglasses (roughly $150) and other accessories – such as the perfect leather-bound laptop case – are classic. You can even buy a Lego set of the United Nations for the kid (or for the kid in you).
The Nimb is minimalist Danish-design porn. Installed in a Moorish palace dating from 1909, the hotel’s 17 rooms overlook Copenhagen’s historic amusement park, Tivoli Gardens. Ride a wooden roller coaster. Sip a negroni beside a roaring fire.
Kick it old-school at Barberen I Vognmagergade, a men-only barbershop where the straight-razor shave is as slick as the top-shelf whiskey owner Jonas Shiran Larsen pours in the afternoon.
The Worthy Tourist Trap.
Take a 20-minute ride to the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, a celebration of Andy Warhol and Max Ernst (among others) set within parklike grounds. Enjoy lunch outside and stare at Sweden across the sound.
On a rooftop farm in an industrial stretch of town, a husband-and-wife team opened Stedsans, a restaurant with just two seatings a night. If you can snag a table, you’ll be rewarded with carrots topped with brown butter hollandaise, perfect wine pairings and Instagram bragging rights.